Ninh Binh

Ninh Binh Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

Morning mist canopies the mountains and caves of Tam Coc; a woman on a bicycle cycles past perfectly green rice fields dotted with bamboo jats; “thit cho” (“dog meat”) signs line the narrow alley walls; vivid plant life juxtaposition old dilapidated Vietnamese houses; and an elderly couple quietly fish in the Kenh Ga canal.

You are in Ninh Binh, a small Northern town offering it’s visitors a unique Vietnamese experience, with it’s natural beauty charming all.

Almost 100km south of Hanoi, Ninh Binh provides many avenues to explore. Visit the busier areas of Tam Coc, Cuc Phuong National Park, Vietnam’s old capital Hoa Lu, or Bich Dong Pagoda. Alternatively, rent a bicycle or motorbike, take a map and phrasebook, and explore Ninh Binh’s quiet roads and colourful ranges, which are contrasted to the South’s Mekong Delta. Hanoi’s operators transport buses of tourists to the former destinations, but if you want to maximise a journey through a quaint Vietnamese town, be adventorous and do it yourself. But wherever you go in Ninh Binh, will be something magical to remember.

Ninh Binh
Photo by TTVo

Ninh Binh
Photo by TTVo

Pham Diet

Phat Diem Church
Photo by ntlam

The centre of Catholicism in Northern Vietnam, Pham Diet attracts both domestic and foreign visitors. Different to most cathedrals found in Europe, Phat Diem Cathedral blends both Gothic style of arthitecture, and traditional Vietnamese building. Restoration has begun on the area, and not much damage can be seen despite it’s bombing in the past.

Visit Phat Diem for unique Vietnamese architecture, which still stands as a “miracle” to Ninh Binh’s 140,000 Roman Catholics.

Phat Diem is 28km out of Ninh Binh town. Renting a motorbike is the easiest option, or alternatively take a “xe om” (motorbike taxi), and car taxi’s will cost much higher (around 10,000 Dong per kilometre).

Tam Coc Caves

Tam Coc Caves
Photo by TTVo

Tam Coc provides boat tours through three main caves in the region. Floating past karst limestone formations jutting into the rice fields, be prepared for a 3 hour boat ride where you can observe villagers in their daily routine. A downside to this trip, is that it is becoming very popular amongst tourists, and you may feel like just another one of the bunch. Tam Coc is only 7 km from the main town, so you can easily get there yourself.

Trang An Caves

Trang An is a quieter, less crowded grotto area similar to Tam Coc. However, it is not always open to tourists until it is fully developed for tourists by 2010. Some groups are allowed through the area on request by contacting Trang An Tourism Co. Ltd., Tel: (84.30) 620.334

Cuc Phuong Park

Cuc Phong National Park
Photo by ecogarden

Cuc Phuong is a beautifully protected sanctuary containing over 50 species of wild orchids and 450 animal species. Limestone mountains surround the Muong tribe houses, while the scenery is nothing less than enchanting. A further 45km out of Ninh Binh, the protected park is a very different way to see Vietnam at its best, and a break from the many pagodas and temples.

Most tour groups go to Tam Coc and Hoa Lu town from Ninh Binh, so there are considerably less foreign visitors at Cuc Phuong.

A motorbike taxi to Cuc Phuong should cost around 100,000 VND while a taxi will cost three or four times that amount. Travel time will be around 1 to 1.5 hours, so be prepared for a long journey if you want to drive or bicycle it yourself.

A good option is to arrive at the park entrance in the morning, and talk to the information kiosk. They will provide you with information on bicycle rental, homestays, their many 1 and 2 day tours, and hiring a tour guide.

The park can be contacted via telephone at Phone: (84)30.848.006; 848.065 or email at dulichcucphuong@hn.vnn.vn for information or booking on their services.

Kenh Ga (Chicken Canal)

The hot springs of Kenh Ga have been known to have a miraculous healing property. A short 23km from Ninh Binh town, the Kenh Ga provides the best way to observe river life of the locals. Fortunately, the canal receives far fewer visitors as Hoa Lu and Tam Coc, so is a much quieter way of travelling throughout Ninh Binh. Maybe you will cure that skin ailment or stomach bug that you have so unpleasantly received while on your travels!

A boat tour around the Canal villages will cost around 40,000 Dong, departing from the main pier. You can only access the hot springs via boat, which will cost around 25,000 Dong. Again, getting to Kenh Ga is easy, either via taxi, or doing it yourself on bicycle or motorbike.

Why Not Go

Travellers who want to party will not enjoy Ninh Binh, as it does not provide much Western fare, and no nightclubs or bars catered to foreigners.

Why Go

Photo by b00ng

Photos, photos, photos. If your a keen photographer, use the vivid colours and scenery as the focal point of your pictures.

The lakes, rivers, caves, plant life, quiet roads, and rice fields all provide a much quieter backdrop than nearby Hanoi. Come to Ninh Binh if you like to enjoy the natural world at it’s best.

Best Time to Visit

Where to Stay

As Ninh Binh is not a major city, hotels here are much cheaper than Hanoi, although providing excellent rooms and service. Many hotels provide free pickup from the bus station, so negotiate this into the deal. The town itself is relatively small, and most hotels are in the main centre. Transport to surrounding areas is not difficult to arrange, either with the hotel, or via rented bicycles, motorbikes or car taxis.

For the budget traveller:
Ngoc Anh Hotel
30, Luong Van Tuy R | Ninh Binh, Vietnam
Ngoc Anh hotel is a favourite amongst travellers, as it provides excellent service, and does not charge huge commissions on services like other hotels. Rooms have wifi, hot water, and staff provide assistance with planning your trip, motorbikes/bicycles for rent, and maps for the area. A great family run hotel, charging around $10 per night.

For magnificent views of Tam Coc:
The Long Hotel Restaurant Ninh Binh
Tam Coc, Bich Dong | Ninh Binh, Vietnam

With excellent views stretching out over Tam Coc, The Long hotel includes an extensive menu in their restaurant. At $30 to $50 a night, this hotel is slightly more expensive, but worth it for the quality of the rooms, free wifi and free breakfast.

Where & What to Eat

Ninh Binh is famous for it’s local goat meat specialty. Ensure that you take a phrasebook with food listings, so you know what your eating.

Local
Sit at any of the local food stalls in the town. The huge bia hoi on Tran Hung Dao is popular with locals, provides good local specialties, and beer on tap. Look for the “bia hoi” sign.

Tourist
Many tours go through bigger restaurants such as Anh Dzung Hotel-Restaurant (Bich Dong street). They have very cheap set menu’s, but not everyone will like listening to the tourist crowds as they eat.

Thanh Thuy’s Guesthouse (128 Le Hong Phong St) is known for it’s delicious food, however open tours also stopover here for lunch.

Drink
Cafe Loc, (2B Tran Hung Dao street) provides fruit shakes and good coffee, with an English and Russian speaking owner.

Nightlife

There are no bars or nightclubs catered for foreigners, neither for Vietnamese clientele. Many hotels have a bar incorporated into their restaurant, but they don’t get particularly busy.

My to do List

1. try the local specialty – goat meat
2. hop on a bike or motorbike and adventure out of the main town
3. visit a village in the Kenh Ga Canal, and watch the locals row the boat with their feet
4. cycle from Hoa Lu to Tam Coc amongst limestone cliffs
5. Watch and listen for the many animal species in Cuc Phuong National Park
6. listen out for young locals shouting out “tay oi!” (“foreigner!”) to you

Stay Away From

Ninh Binh is a relatively safe town, and most locals are curious and excited to see foreigners. Most families will lock up their houses by 9:30 and it instantly becomes deserted, so walking around the streets at night time is not reccomended, but not entirely unsafe.

Getting There

Ninh Binh is located only 93 km from Hanoi, and a bus will take you directly there.

For the cheapest option, ask your hotel in Hanoi where the nearest bus station is and what times buses leave for Ninh Binh. There will be hundreds of buses at the station with their destinations listed on the front. Hop on one of the Ninh Binh buses, and pay the fare (via hand signals or pen and paper). It is 2 hours to Ninh Binh and local cost is around 40,000 Dong.

Alternatively, let the hotel arrange everything for you, and to take you to the bus station. They will charge a higher price, but it will be much more convenient.

Da Nang

Da Nang Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Getting There

Da Nang, a city on the sea, is a mixture of isolated beaches, picteresque mountains, rich ancient history, and one of the friendliest groups of people in Viet Nam. It’s quiet sandy beaches of the South China Sea, juxtaposition the city lifestyle, making Da Nang a unique Vietnamese city not to be missed.

Located between the old town of Hoi An, the holy land of My Son and the historical city of Hue, expect a city deep in ancient heritage, but at the same time, offering a tropical haven for those who just want to relax. Da Nang is halfway between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh cities, built around old army bases of the American-Vietnam war.

Da Nang
Photo by Kngo

Non Nuoc Beach

Photo by Naked Eyes

Photo by Naked Eyes

Shellshocked from the effects of the American-Vietnam War, Da Nang’s beaches now offer unspoilt sands, and clear (clean!) waters. Visit during the day, when the beach is literally deserted from locals at work and school, with the very rare tour bus. At evenings (4pm onwards), teenage boys flock to play football on the sand, while young couples visit after dark to quietly cuddle by the moonlight. If you travel directly east from the Han River bridge, you will hit Da Nang’s main beach, Non Nuoc. A taxi will take you there for around 30,000 Dong, while a xe om (motorbike taxi) should take you for half that – just be clear and concise with your prices.

Son Tra Peninsula

Son Tra Peninsula is a large mountaineous range of 30 sq km of forest, and 300 different types of plants. It now offers a quiet getaway spot for visitors to Da Nang, still unexploited by tourists, despite interest for major development under planning. An ideal way to explore this area, is by motorbike, where you can travel the windy roads further and further up the mountain, and take in breathtaking views of the entire city, it’s beaches and more. If your hungry, follow one of the many signs off the main road and you’ll be sure to find food or drink. You can park your motorbike for 1000 Dong, and they will walk you down to the beach, with private tables, chairs and hammocks. Take a dictionary with you, because there is absolutely no English. Providing magnificent panoramas, Son Tra Peninsula is the perfect way to spend a half a day while in Da Nang. It’s poetic views of Da Nang, Hoi An and further, present an opportunity that not many other tourists take advantage of. The peace and quiet will be a much needed break from the noise that the Vietnamese roads offer.

Marble Mountains

Nui Ngu Hanh Son, or the Marble Mountains, are made up of 5 different mountains, each representing a different element: metal, wood, fire, water and earth. Take good walking shoes, as you will be walking up hundreds of carved steps, and taking in more breathtaking views over Da Nang. Inside the mountains, are home to many small Buddhist sanctuaries, within large caves and numerous tunnels. The mountains contain both marble and limestone, which will be evident when you see stonecutter shops selling everything from small souvenir Buddhas, to giant carved lions. The mountains provide a great opportunity to learn more about Viet Nam’s buddhist history, and the land surrounding Da Nang.

Why Not Go

Backpackers and people who want to party, party and party will not enjoy Da Nang as there is minimal nightlife here.

Being one of the least developed major cities in Vietnam, Da Nang is still relatively small, and it doesn’t have the ancient charm seen in Hoi An or Hanoi. If you like big cities and the “wow”factor of a new city, Da Nang is not for you.

Why Go

People who enjoy the outdoors and beaches will adore Da Nang. It’s beaches stretch for miles, and during the day, totally deserted. Son Tra Peninsula is the perfect place for some photography of the city and the beaches.

Older travellers who like some more peace and quiet compared to other cities in Vietnam, will enjoy Da Nang. It is not overflocked by young travellers, and there are hotels along the beach away from the main roads.

Best Time to Visit

Wet Season is from August to December and dry season from January to July. Avoid the wet season as much as possible, as rains are very heavy. All throughout the year it will rain, even during the dry season it may rain for 20 minutes, so be sure to pack an umbrella.

Visiting from January to May is the best, when rains are low. The heat really kicks in in June, but will still be warm enough to enjoy the outdoors and the beach.

Where to Stay

Budget on the Beach: Hoa’s Place (215/14 Huyen Tran Cong Chua St, China Beach, T: (0511) 3969 216 ) provides rooms cheaper than $10 US a night. Rooms are small, and not the most comfortable, but the service and hospitality provided can far exceed more expensive hotels. Hoa is fluent in English and will take care of your needs, while his wife cooks communal meals at 7pm each night.

High-End on the beach: Furama Resort was built over 10 years ago, and is the best resort operating in Da Nang. All the amenities of a 5 star resort, plus the waterfall pool with private beach is stunning. Food served from the restaurant and pool side menu is good, but extremely expensive for it’s quality. A popular hotel for business groups, and provides a free shuttle to Hoi An and Da Nang.

You can choose to stay in the city centre if you are only there for 1 day, or in transit. If you wish to maximise your stay in Da Nang, it is best to stay near or on the beach, where you have access to the one of the best views and best beaches in Vietnam.

Where & What to Eat

Bread of Life: Most of the staff here are deaf, and Bread of Life is involved with all sorts of charity programs within the local community. Owned and run by an American couple, the food served here is fantastic, and not too pricey either, with some profits going to charity.

Christie’s Cool Spot: Local expat hangout, pub downstairs, restaurant upstairs. Come here for an extensive menu of food, Vietnamese, Western, Japanese, fast food and everything else. They have a huge cocktail list, lovely wait staff, and prices aren’t bad either.

Apsara Restaurant: Popular Vietnamese restaurant, but usually packed with Vietnamese customers on weekends. Lots of seafood, popular in Da Nang, being so close to the beach. They have authentic Vietnamese performances of dance and music, but don’t come here if you want quiet and peace while you’re eating.

On the Beach: If you want an authentic Vietnamese experience, sit down at one of the many small food stalls set up literally on the sand of Non Nuoc beach. Take your phrase book with you and translate the tens of fish offered on the menu, or just point at something that looks interesting and hope for the best. No English is spoken, but make sure you establish the price if you don’t get a menu. You will be spoilt for choice, plus given comfortable beach lounge chairs.

Local food is different in Da Nang to cities as close as Hue. Local specialty “Mi Quang” is a very famous noodle breakfast dish. Da Nang has the variety of all Vietnamese cities. You can find “Chao” from Southern Vietnam, “Pho” from Hanoi, and “Bun Bo Hue” from Hue.

Nightlife

Christie’s Cool Spot – local pub hangout for locals. Mainly male-dominated pub, an extensive drinks list, and friendly staff.

Bamboo 2 Bar – the other hangout for expats. Western music, pool table, seating in and out, and a chance to speak with other foreigners. Small bar, but given your lack of choice, this is really it.

My to do List

1. walk along the beach at dawn/dusk
2. Motorbike up Son Tra Peninsula and take in the views.
3. Eat fresh seafood on the beach.
4. Say hello to the many teenagers smiling eagerly at you on the street.
5. Take the trip from Da Nang to Hue or vice versa via the Hai Van Pass.
6. Eat the local Mi Quang dish

Getting There

Da Nang has an International Airport only a few minutes from the city centre. There are only a few international flight services operating from Asiana Airlines, SilkAir & Korean Air. Most travellers fly into Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh city, and travel either north or south.

Domestic flights travel from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh to/from Da Nang via Jetstar Airlines and Vietnam Airlines. If you get in early, you can get a flight as low as 300,000 Dong travelling Hanoi to/from Da Nang.

Beware of taxis at Da Nang airport scouting for foreigners to travel direct from Da Nang to Hoi An city. Many taxi’s will not take you on metre alone, and charge you $10 just to get to Da Nang city which is only 5 minutes away. Use the Mai Linh taxi group (green and white), insist on paying in Dong, and only using the metre.