I heard Sapa and the whole region was getting more and more crowded with tourists lately. Do you reckon Sapa and its surrounding villages are so filled with tourists that it reached an annoying level? (I know, everybody finds different things annoying…but still)

Answer

Sapa is indeed very popular with local and foreign tourists, and the local minority people are very much used to see tourists. I think it will depend on the time of year as well. I was there in early January, and the New Years crowd had just cleared out the day prior, so I found it a quiet time.

Sapa is still a very charming small mountain town that is well worth the visit if you have enough time.

However it is best too avoid during the summer and week-ends though.

We’ll be travelling from Hanoi to Sapa during the Tet holiday, is it advisable for us to book our train ticket in advance? We planned to buy our train ticket at the train station when we arrive as it will be cheaper. We were quoted 66usd for return ticket per person. Is this price reasonable? Also, we need to catch a flight back home and we are taking the night train from Lao Cai. Is the train schedule reliable?

Answer

Têt throws a lot of usual practices into the air – you can probably get your tickets on arrival, but unless the price is much higher you might want to play it safe and get them earlier.

The price might be reasonable or not – it depends on the train category, number of berths per cabin, etc.. For that price you should be getting “soft sleeper” and no more than 4 people per cabin.

The train station is at least 45+ minutes from Noi Bai airport, potentially more if you get stuck in morning traffic. Assuming you want to be at the airport at least 90 minutes before your international flight, if your train is scheduled to arrive in Hanoi at 5:30AM or later you risk missing your flight, if there’s just one delay at one of the train’s stops during the night.

Train timetable from Lao Cai to Ha Noi —(from Sep.2.2011)
(Train no—Dep.time/Arr.time)
SP2–Lao Cai 20:05pm/Ha Noi 04:35am
SP4–Lao Cai 20:45pm/Ha Noi 05:10am
SP8–Lao Cai 19:30pm/Ha Noi *04:05am(not 04:30am now)
SP6–Lao Cai 18:55pm/Ha Noi 03:40am
LC2–Lao Cai 21:20pm/Ha Noi 06:55am
LC4–Lao Cai 09:15am/Ha Noi 20:15pm

Train timetable from Ha Noi to Lao Cai —(from Sep.2.2011)
(Train no—Dep.time/Arr.time)
SP1–Ha Noi 21:10pm/Lao Cai 05:25am
SP3–Ha Noi 21:50pm/Lao Cai 06:15am
SP7–Ha Noi 20:35pm/Lao Cai 04:55am
SP5–Ha Noi 19:40pm/Lao Cai 04:22am
LC1–Ha Noi 22:00pm/Lao Cai 07:20am
LC3–Ha Noi 06:10am/Lao Cai 16:35pm

We were thinking of visiting Vietnam beginning of February. Just realized that they are also celebrating the new year. Will the shops and other places be open? Any advise? So is it a good time to visit Vietnam during Tet?

Answer

Since the whole country is off for about 1 week to celebrate the Tet at home with the family, I would avoid this period if possible. Services are minimal and overpriced and many shops and restaurants are closed.

Tan Son Nhat is Vietnam’s largest international airport. There are 2 terminals – International flights departs from the newer international terminal whereas domestic flights (to Hanoi, Danang, Nha Trang, etc) are from domestic terminal (turn left). When you are going to the airport, be specific which terminal you want to go to. Otherwise to make your way to the other terminal, you have to walk with your luggage down the 600m pedestrian link

For arriving passengers, upon exiting the terminal, you will first see taxis from this company called Sasco. They costs slightly more than other taxi companies like Vinasun and Mai Linh, which can be found waiting for passengers some 500m further out into the parking lot. Whichever taxi you choose, make sure the driver uses the meter or you could simply purchase a “Taxi coupon” at one of the counters after the custom declaration & x-ray at international airport terminal, next to the Exchange counter.

As of May 2009, the airport has started using a Taxi queue system (usually at the left end of the terminal). Lookout for the taxi warden standing around the queue line who will radio the taxi for you. (Mai Linh wardens are in green shirt green tie, Vinasun warden are in dark green shirt maroon tie)

Watch out for taxi touts who also dress in white shirt uniforms and holding laminated “fixed prices” cards at $US25.00 per car to the city hotels. With bargaining, they might drop the price to $US15.00 but this is still more expensive than the metered taxis.

Budget Car Rental has recently become the first international car rental company in Vietnam. They offer English speaking drivers and new model vehicles, one trip to the city costs USD80 (fixed price)

By Bus

Airport Bus No.152 is the cheapest way into the city and comes air-conditioned. It will drop you off on the west side of the Pham Ngu Lao area or at the bus terminal on the south side of the Ben Thanh Market roundabout. Upon exiting the airport, turn right and walk towards the domestic airport. There in front of the airport across a small road you will find the bus waiting there. The price was recently increased to 3,000 VND.

Most private tour buses also drop passengers off on Pham Ngu Lao just west of De Tham, which is one stone throw away from the backpacker area.

Street Food: Here’s the stall where i had my first real pork roll in Vietnam. So great to have your favourite food in its native country. There was plenty of action around the stall.
Photo by micz

Budget Choices

There are food stalls set up all over the city and you can find a good selection of them near the Ben Thanh market. Besides the authentic taste, it is also the local charm of eating in these food stalls that adds to the experience. If you would like to their local fast food, the most popular will be the Pho 24 chain. Clean modern chain found everywhere in Ho Chi Minh City serving excellent beef noodle soup at affordable prices.

Along Pham Ngu Lao there are many budget Western selections, and exploring further into the side alleys is always a good idea as they tend to be of better standards.

• Dong Ba, 110A Nguyen Du, Dist 1. This is a shop that sells food from the region of Hue including Hue beef noodles and traditional banh beo rice cakes.
• Pao restaurant & caffe, 158 Bui Vien, Dist 1. This newly opened restaurant has very unique decorations with small instruments, traditional dress, hats, of the minority ethnic group in North of Vietnam. Local Vietnamese fares like Spring rolls, Hot pot, Pho with reasonable price. They have live Vietnamese Instrument Show on every Friday, Sunday.
• Doner Kebab, 198 Bui Vien st., District 1. Situated in the backpacker area, you could easily find this small stall selling Turkish Kebab for 15,000D each.
• Dream Cones, 16 Nguyen Thi Nghia St., Ben Thanh Ward, Dist. 1. Nothing more satisfying than a Gelato ice cream for less than 16,000 dong a scoop when the heat gets to you. Nice quirky and cool neon atmosphere.
• Pho 2000, 3 locations, one sharing space with I Love Burger, one right next to Ben Thanh Market, and the last toward the end of Le Thanh Ton Street. Moment of fame arrived in the form of a visit from the ex-president of USA Bill Clinton. Has excellent pho (including a seafood version), along with the usual Vietnamese rice dishes, including a superb vegetarian curry.
• BanhMiBistro, 76 Vo Thi Sau, District 1, across from Le Van Tam park. Great tasting fresh gourmet sandwiches, especially the famous Vietnamese Banh Mi sandwich. Bread is baked fresh in the store. There are 3 other outlets around town.
• Cafe Lam, 175 Bui Vien, District 1. Excellent restaurant in backpackers area. Huge portions with rock bottom prices. Value for money.

Mid-range Choices

• Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1, HCMC. Black Cat offers one of the best burgers around. Fresh and juicy beef patty. Try their jumbo burger at US$15 for an unforgettable burger experience.
• Barbecue Garden, 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia – Quan 1. HCMC Phone 8233340. Located 100 meters from Ben Thanh Market, behind the General Sciences Library. Specializing in BBQ recipes, the ambiance and music completes the total package of a delightful outing. The restaurant is an amazing place to have diner but also to have a drink (free wifi) during the day for a timeout.
• Chi Nghia, 53 Thu Khoa Huan, near Ben Thanh market. Small place specializing in Northern style Vietnamese cuisine. It’s run by the previous chef of Sofitel hotel, so her cooking and presentation is five star quality, but at affordable prices. Entrees are US$2-5. Very clean, and nicely decorated.
• Huong Dong, 68 Huynh Tinh Cua. A modest, open-air restaurant serving mostly southern country-style food. You might need a few beers though to muster the courage to try some of the more exotic dishes, including field mouse, whole frog, pigeon porridge, and coconut worm. A wide variety of other meats and seafood is available for the more conservative diners. Quirkly English translations of the long menu add to the attraction of the place.
• Lemongrass, 4 Nguyen Thiep Street. Near the Opera House.Vietnamese restaurant leaning on the touristy side. Most dishes are in US$4-6 range, although some seafood items are expensive; try the daily business lunch at US$3++.Opened another outlet on the 14th Floor of Palace Hotel Saigon, 10 minutes away from the first outlet. Same menu, same price.
• Quan An Ngon, 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street. A large and busy Vietnamese chain featuring regional specialties from around the country in the US$3-5 range. The place operates like independent food stalls in the premises. It’s set in an atmospheric old French villa across the street from the Reunification Palace.
• Quan Nuong, 29-31 Ton That Thiep. A delicious, reasonably-priced open-air barbecue restaurant on the roof above Fanny’s ice cream parlor and the Temple Club.Try the bacon wrapped salmon & the beef wrapped cheese skewers. They also serve a variety of mostly southern-style salads and noodle dishes. It’s very popular and often fills up by mid-evening.
• Sushi Bar, with two locations: corner of Le Thanh Ton and Ton Duc Thang in Q1, about six blocks northeast of the Opera House; and on the food-court floor of Zen Plaza on Nguyen Trai. Probably the best sushi around with an extensive range of sushi at value prices. Very popular, so be prepared to wait during the dining hours.
• Spice, 27c Le Quy Don in Q3. Authentic Thai food prepared by their two Thai chefs. In addition to a large selection of classics like Tom Yam Kung and Papaya Salad, they have interesting specials every week do ask the staff for details.
• The City Diner. Authentic 1950s style American Diner with 2 locations. 110 Ho Tung Mau, District 1, and 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, The Manor, Binh Thanh. Great Burgers, Salads, Sandwiches at reasonable prices. A fun atmosphere offering refillable coffee and free wi-fi make this restaurant a favorite with locals, expats and visitors alike. Ho tung Mau location open till late.

Splurge Choices

• Au Lac do Brazil, 238 Pasteur, between Dien Bien Phu and Vo Thi Sau. To remove all doubts that Saigon has everything, here is a Brazilian-style churrascaria (all-you-can-eat restaurant featuring barbecued meat), with live Latin music Tuesday to Saturday. They also have a new outlet in Sky Garden II, Phu My Hung, Dist 7. (Price $30+ per person)
• Co Ngu, on Pasteur just before Dien Bien Phu, Q1. Nice Vietnamese and Asian-fusion food in a Villa setting, with indoor and garden seating. Popular for business groups.
• La Habana, 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, two blocks northeast of the Hyatt and opera house. Authentic Spanish and Cuban-style food with a large tapas menu. Also one of the few places in Vietnam that makes really good cocktails.
• La Hosteria, on Le Thanh Ton a few blocks east of the Hilton. A gourmet Italian restaurant with excellent home-made pasta dishes and desserts.
• L’En tete, 1st floor, 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q.1 (at the junction with Calmette). Excellent French restaurant in an area not normally associated with fine dining. Great for a leisurely dining experience, good food with main courses ranging from 150000-450000 dong.
• Temple Club, 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q.1 (ice cream parlour on first floor) recreates a 1930′s ambiance with separate bar, restaurant, and lounge area. The food is average but most people come to soak up the atmosphere.
• ZanZBar Restaurant & Bar 41 Dong Du Street, Q1 (diagonally opposite Sheraton Hotel) has modern casual-upscale feel with extensive range of international & Vietnamese cuisine (plenty for vegetarians to choose from too). Huge wine-by-glass & cocktail menu. Food is world class and generous in size. Very popular place at any time of the day. As dusk falls, the columns lit up to create a fantastic ambience.

Where to Have a Coffee

Coffee is just an integral part of the Vietnamese’s way of life as the pho. The Cà phê is very popular among the Vietnamese and they drink it many times a day. Being the world’s second largest exporter of coffee after Brazil, it is simply a paradise for coffee lovers.

Typical Vietnamese Coffee
Photo by mengteck

The local style is strong and sweet; important words to remember are: sữa (sweetened condensed milk), đá (ice), and nóng (hot). Cà phê đá is strong, sweet iced coffee; and cà phê sữa đá is the same with condensed milk. The must try for all tourist is the Cà phê (sữa) nóng, freshly brewed in front of you, it’s served in a little metal cup with a sieve bottom and a second fliter base placed over a glass. This Brewer makes an adorable souvenir as well.

Espresso, cappuccino, and American-style filter coffee these days are also widely available in the tourist district, usually at twice the price of the local style.
• Gloria Jeans Cnr Dong Khoi and Nguyen Thiep (opposite the Sheraton). Popular Starbucks-style chain.
• Kem Café Popular local joint with excellent vibe. Pull up a plastic chair and sit on the pavement and a table will appear shortly. Most of the staff don’t speak English though so point to order.
• Cine Café 116 Nguyen Du, inside the Galaxy Cinema complex. Quiet ambiance with views of the park.
• Givral Café, Dong Khoi (opposite Continental Hotel). More in the French tradition, with fresh pastries, collared waiters and elaborate portions of ice cream. Well located, but over 20000 dong for the simplest cup.
• Highlands Coffee is an upscale, somewhat pricey chain serving Western-style as well as local-style brews in prime locations around the tourist district. They also serve food and pastries. Cappuccino costs above 30,000 dong, but the quality is disappointing.
• Cafe Napoly on Pham Ngoc Thach near the Turtle Pond. The decor is Roman-ruin-lite (they meant “Napoli”) but the menu is typical for an upscale Vietnamese cafe — coffee, fruit drinks, ice cream, and a simple food menu including eggs and rice dishes. Piped music is nice and prices are affordable. Houses three sections: an outdoor terrace in front, air-con section on the ground floor, and evening time lounge-bar on the upper floor. Next door is the louder, more trendy Cafe Nam Sao.
• Poppy Café , 217 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3. Modern lounge café where the specialty is fruit-topped natural frozen yogurt. The only café that serves this refreshing healthy treat. Creative fruit smoothies and light Vietnamese + Western fares also on menu. Free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, and English-speaking staff.
• Trung Nguyen, The Vietnamese version of Starbucks with branches all over the city. There are plenty of variations including the infamous weasel coffee (cà phê chồn), made from coffee beans collected from civet excrement. Two convenient outlets are east side of Nguyen Hue right before City Hall, and corner of Thu Khoa Huan and Ly Tu Trong.

Cyclo drivers are notorious for asking one price and wanting more after the ride, but it is still worth the experience to try it out. Make sure you negotiate a price before getting on.

Motorbikes are everywhere- every corner in the city you will see there are motorcycle taxis available. They are inexpensive but it’s better to negotiate a price before you get on. Try to take those waiting on the main street or near hotels.

Bus

With the exception of those tour companies bus, public bus tend to be slow and unreliable and often over-crowded. You might want to take one just for the experience of it since it is definitely a sure way to ‘rub shoulders’ with the locals. Keep watch on your belongings though.

At 3,000 VND a ride, you can also take a public bus to the following bus stations:
• Cho Ben Thanh Bus Station – city centre and within walking distance to most the tourist sites and accommodation
• Mien Dong Bus Station – Buses heading north leave and arrive here.
• Mien Tay Bus Station – Take bus 139 from Tran Hung Dao Street to get here.
• Cholon Bus Station

Taxis

Taxis are relatively inexpensive and a convenient mode of transport especially if the weather is bad. Just make sure you get a metered cab and only pay what’s on the meter.

Boats

In some areas it is necessary to take boats. A recommended ride is to take the hydrofoil from Ho Chi Minh to Vung Tau. Prices are fixed but for some private services you should make sure you negotiate the price before getting on the boat.

Around Dong Khoi St

Dong Khoi, formerly known as Rue Catinat have gone through much transformation so it no wonder that it is now a district of colourful activity – souvenir shops, high-end hotels and galleries aplenty. At Le Loi St, you pass the old OPERA HOUSE. This magnificent building is a classic example of French colonial style building in Vietnam. Built with the purpose of staging classical opera to entertain French colonists, the building was later used as the home of the Lower House assembly of South Vietnam after 1956. It was not until 1975 that it was again used as a theater and the restorative works have been ongoing since 1995.

A block south and you will come to the SAIGON CENTRAL MOSQUE (66 Dong Du St), also known as ‘Jamia Mosque’. In front of the sparkling white-and-blue structure, with its four nonfunctional minarets, is a pool for the ritual washing of oneself as required by Islamic law before prayers. Take off your shoes before entering the sanctuary.

North District One

The following sights, in the northern streets of central District One, are easily seen by foot. From Dong Khoi, you can walk up to the post office, make a left on Le Duan to Reunification Palace, then north on Nam Ky Khoi Nghia to Vo Van Tan (three blocks), and the War Remnants Museum (two blocks west). Or from the palace, go south to the Ho Chi Minh City Museum.

REUNIFICATION PALACE
One of Saigon’s biggest and most prominent landmarks, the Reunification Palace is also one of the most frequented sight and a must see for anybody who’s keen on the history of the country. The palace is well preserved with much of the building left intact as it was at that time Walking through is like walking through Vietnam 1966 – original faded carpets, lacquer wall art, and burnt-orange curtains still hang in some of the rooms.

It will be advisable to join the guided tours (in English) that leave every 10 minutes or so. Tours begin in the wide-open ground floor and go through each floor to the fourth-floor rooftop, where you can see the helicopter landing. The tour ends in the basement, where you can visit the rooms where numerous meetings took place on discussing war strategies. There is also a museum here on the history of the building. Note the famous photo of the VC tank ‘crashing’ through the front gates on April 30, 1975 – the photo was actually restaged (you can see the gate is already knocked down).

106 Nguyen Du; adult/children 15,000/2000D (US$0.95/0.15); open 7.30-11am, 1-4pm daily

WAR REMNANTS MUSEUM
One of the world’s most compelling cases against war is here. No more the rundown ‘Museum of American War Crimes’ with over-the-top propaganda messages. It is not a place that a French or American tourist will leave feeling very proud.

Rebuilt in 2000, the new museum now has eight themed rooms. One such room contains various exhibit honouring many international photographers who died while documenting the wars against France and the USA.

Outside is a recreation of a Con Dao island prison – where VC captured were taken during both wars – as well as a French guillotine, supposedly last used in 1960. Military tanks and artillery line the yard. In the main building, you will come upon visually disturbing sights of jars containing deformed babies (all victims of Agent Orange) and gruesome war photos of decapitated VC soldiers. If you are able to go through the former exhibits without feeling faint, you might be able to sit through a video on Agent Orange which shows at 9am, 10am, 11am, 2.30pm and 3.30pm daily.

Tel 08-939-2112; warm@cinet.vnnews.com; 28 Vo Van Tan, D3; admission 15,000D (US$0.95); open 7.30am to noon, 1.30 to 5pm

POST OFFICE
You do not need to have a reason to visit this ultra-grand French post office, finished in 1891, in Gothic architectural style. Within the elaborate peach-and-green interior a huge portrait of Ho overlooks the whole hall. Note the recently renovated maps of Saigon et sus Environs (1892) and Sud Vietn Nam et Cambodge (1936) on either wall as you enter. Sending a post card or letter to the USA/UK/Australia is 9000/8000/7000D (US$0.55/0.50/0.45). Post cards available for sale here.

2 Coq Xu Paris Q1, open 7am to 9pm daily

NOTRE DAME CATHEDRAL
Established by French colonists between 1863 and 1880, this lovely red bricked building was constructed with all original building materials imported from France – bricks and tiles were from Marseilles and stained glass windows from Chartres. It is flanked by two bell towers, reaching a height of over 58 meters (190 feet).Take pleasure in its neo-Romanesque style architecture which at that time was the most beautiful one in a French colony. The sacred atmosphere inside is indeed very contrasting against the busy traffic right outside the cathedral.

Full services in English are held every Sunday morning at 930 am and are well attended by Vietnamese and foreigners alike. The iconic cathedral has also become a favourite choice of location for Vietnamese couple taking their bridal photos regardless of religion. It’s always a delight to chance upon such special moment and sometimes the whole process can be interesting to watch too.

Dong Khoi & Han Thuyen Sts; visiting hours (supposedly) 8-10.30am, 3-4pm Mon-Fri, plus Sunday mass from 5.30am

HO CON RUA
You’ll see Ho Con Rua (Turtle Lake) towering concrete lotus flower from a few blocks away. What you cannot see though is the turtle statue that used to at the lake. Back then, South Vietnamese President Thieu had it built Ho Con Rua for Feng Shui reasons and the turtle to represent wisdom. However, not long after the fall of Saigon, a group of national minorities apparently blew up the structure and it has been left as it is. Across the street, quiet little cafes serve fresh coconut and coffees, and at night, sellers of dried-squid and balloons set up their pushcarts along the circle.

Pham Ngoc Thach & Vo Van Tan Sts, two blocks north of Notre Dame

HO CHI MINH CITY MUSEUM
This museum houses covers various aspects of the city’s past such as traditional crafts, war relics, traditional Chinese-style Hoa weddings and photos of peace protests in Saigon in 1970. Don’t forget to visit the collection of military hardware outside such as the F-5 jet which apparently bombed the Independence Palace in 1975.

Tel 08-829-9741; 65 Ly Tu Trong D1; admission 15,000D (US$0.95); open 8am-5pm daily

US EMBASSY SITE
Five or six blocks east of Reunification Palace on Le Duan St is the former US embassy where crowds stormed in late April 1975 to try and get on a helicopter to leave the city. It was later demolished in 1998 and is now the walled site of the US consulate. There is not much to see here but you can try to imagine the scene then.

4 Le Duan, between Mac Dinh Chi & Hai Ba Trung Sts

HISTORY MUSEUM
At the end end of Le Duan St, inside the city zoo, the ‘Museum of Vietnamese History’ occupies a great old 1929 French-built place, with Asian-style tiered tower and sunken courtyards. Inside a bust of Ho Chi Minh greets you and exhibits with English subtitles uncovers Vietnam’s past. Don’t miss the Tran Hung Dao bit which illustrated how he mounted wood spikes in the nearby river to pierce Chinese warships in the 13th century. It was a victorious moment in the country’s history, telling the Chinese they couldn’t conquer them. When they got stuck, he sent flamed arrows and they died from fire.’ The museum hosts a water-puppet show at 9am, 10am, 11am, 2pm, 3pm and 4pm (it’s $2 extra).

Tel 08-825-8784; corner of Le Duan & Nguyen Binh Kiem Sts; admission 15,000D (US$0.95), plus 8000D (US$0.50) for the zoo; open 8-11am, 1.30-4.30pm Tue-Sun, zoo open 7am-8pm daily

Around Ben Thanh Market

At the end of Le Loi, a few blocks west of Nguyen Hue, the Ben Thanh Market is the heart of central Saigon. From here, you can visit the Fine Arts Museum just south, then head on to the riverside, or north to the Reunification Palace.

BEN THANH MARKET
Ben Thanh market has long been one of Saigon’s most famous landmark. The market has been in existence since the French occupation. The Market is a little faded but the same cannot be said of the energy level inside. With over 3000 stalls, it is a whirlwind of activity with fresh produce brought in daily from the Mekong, t-shirts stalls, noodle and coffee stands. A good time is to come after 5pm when the street stretches along with open-air seafood and noodle stands, ideal for a meal in the busy action and more people watching.

Corner of Lei Loi, Tran Hung Dao, Ham Nghi & Le Thanh Ton Sts

FINE ARTS MUSEUM
The Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum may not be particularly notable for its art, but it is still worth visiting for they offer a good glimpse into the local art scene. The displays spans over three floors of the building with the first floor showcasing exhibits of contemporary art by local and international artists. This section is changed frequently. The second floor galleries display contemporary art from the museum’s permanent collection. The collection features sketches, paintings and statues, many of which focus on the resistance to the various colonial rulers. Lastly, the third floor displays older works from the first century to the early twentieth century.

Tel 829-4441, 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, admission 10,000d (US$0.65), open 9am-5pm Tue-Sun

HO CHI MINH MUSEUM
Not to be confused with the far superior Ho Chi Minh City Museum, this museum housed in a French colonial era building is located near the dock of Saigon. The life story of the modern day father of Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh and many of his personal possessions is being displayed here as a tribute.

Tel 825-5740, 1 Nguyen Tat Thanh Q1, admission 10,000D (US$0.65), open 7am-11.30am, 1.30-5pm Tue-Sun

North of the Center

The sights here are easiest reached by taxi though you can also reach them by walking from the center.

JADE EMPEROR PAGODA (PHUOC HAI TU PAGODA)
Built by the local chinese community in 1909,the Jade Emperor Pagoda is Saigon’s most impressive. Dedicated to their Taoist God, this colourful temple also houses a number of other deities statues. Beyond the turtle pond to the right side of the red building is where the worshippers pray and thus most atmospheric. Walls blackened by the joss sticks smoke and the Chinese tablets placed inside attest to the history of the place. The Jade Emperor who is responsible for monitoring the entry to heaven is strategically placed iat the back of the main building. Follow the direction he looks to a side ride, down a betel juice–colored hall to the ‘Hall of Ten Hells’. Here, you can see ten wood carved panels depicting scenes from Hell. Old Vietnamese women sell birds outside the pagoda that can be bought and set free – a practice popular with the faithfuls with the purpose of accumulating merits in one’s life.

73 Mai Thi Luu St, half a block north of Dien Bien Phu St; open 7am-6pm daily

WOMEN’S MUSEUM OF SOUTH VIETNAM
Often overlooked by visitors to Saigon, this free well-arranged museum devoted to women of the south is worth a visit if time permits. Spread out over 2 floors, the first floor entails how traditions has evolved with time and you can also find many types of the ao dai (traditional dress) and Vietnamese crafts on display.

Upstairs, the exhibits honors many women revolutionaries who made a difference. Photos include foreign women who supposedly supported the northern cause – including Jane Fonda, who famously visited Hanoi during the war.

Also honored are many teenage women (including Vo Thi Sau, whom the street outside is named for), who would meet their deaths by torture in prison camps. Look for the 1968 photo of a student-protestor Vo Thi Thang, who left a Saigon court with a 20-year jail sentence and escorted by the police with a giant defiant smile on her face – something that made quite an impact on front pages here and abroad.

202 Vo Thi Sau St, D3; admission free; open 7.30-11.30am, 1-5pm daily

Cholon
The largest district of its kind in Vietnam, being in Cholon (big market) is like being transported to a different time and place compared to central Saigon. There are no high-rise buildings here. Old colonial style architecture still surrounds this market and adds to its charm. There are several pagodas within walking distance here but you may wish to just shortlist a few and spend more time at the Binh Tay Market.

PAGODAS
A good starting point is the QUAN AM PAGODA (23 Lao Tu St, off Chau Van Liem, between Hung Vuong & Nguyen Trai Sts), built in 1816 and believed to be Saigon’s oldest existing pagoda. It’s ornate – with woodcarved figures and doorways – but well worn by the normal tourist route, as visitors with cameras shuffle by smoking joss sticks toward the central altar of A Pho (the Queen of Heaven).
A block north, on Hung Vuong St, is a lesser-visited pagoda, the brick-exterior PHUOC AN HOI QUAN PAGODA (184 Hung Vuong, half a block east of Chau Van Liem St). Phuoc An is noted for its finely crafted ceramic walls and arches, porcelain figures, and intricate woodcarvings

TAM SON HOI QUAN PAGODA (118 Duong Trieu Quang Phuc) This pagoda is dedicated to the Goddess of Fertility, Mae Sanh. Many women who wish to have greater fertility will be seen praying and making offerings here in hope of being blessed.

HA CHUONG HOI QUAN PAGODA (802 Duong Nguyen Trai) The four elaborately carved stone dragon pillars make this pagoda well worth a visit. ONG BON PAGODA (264 Duong Hai Thuong Lai Ong. Open 5 am to 5 pm.) Dedicated to Ong Bon, the guardian of Happiness and Virtue, the pagoda features an intricately carved wooden altar. The pagoda sits next to a huge school, so expect to be inundated by throngs of happy and curious kids if you arrive between 4 and 5 pm

TO BINH TAY MARKET & AROUND
From Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda, it’s a five-minute walk (via Chau Van Liem St to Tran Hung Dao St) to the sprawling FABRIC MARKET (Tran Hung Dao & Phung Hung Sts). Fabric shopping in Ho Chi Minh City is a serious affair not to be treated lightly especially with the variety available here. You can find every type of silk in every colour and numerous types of cotton, wool and even tweed!

Looking over Tran Hung Dao St from its western end (a few blocks west) is CHA TAM CHURCH (Tran Hung Dao & Hoc Lac Sts), where South Vietnam president Ngo Dinh Diem and his brother hid following a 1963 coup attempt. Eventually they surrendered and were killed in the vehicle taking them back to central Saigon.

Follow Hoc Lac St south a couple blocks to Thap Muoi St and turn right. Four blocks west this busy thoroughfare becomes Hau Giant St and reaches Cholon’s top attraction, the golden French-era BINH TAY MARKET (Hau Giang St), with a clock-tower and Moorish-style domes and a cramped maze of stalls on two floors. Although the business is mainly wholesale, the sellers will be happy to serve you as well. The aisles are narrow, the din is loud most probably from the noise of all the bargaining of going on, and the people are scurrying about or squatting in the narrow passages to talk or eat but this is what makes the experience more fun. The variety of goods here is positively astounding and will give you uncanny glimpses into modern Vietnamese life.

About ten blocks east of the market, past Chau Van Liem St, there is a row lined with Traditional Medicine Shops and it can be fun to see peek in and see the types of herbs they use. This area has some lovely old buildings was used as the setting for scenes of the controversial film Cyclo in 1995. Serves as an excellent pit stop for a beer or coffee and stretching those tired legs before proceeding on.

District 11

If you’re looking for an unusual day away from tourist hordes and the more touristy parts of Saigon, you can go to District 11. But only if you are really looking for something to do.

DAM SEN PARK
Goofy but well-kept, western Saigon’s Dam Sen Park has been Saigon’s Disneyland for years, where kids come to ride water slides, ferris wheels and bumper cars, and newlyweds pose in front of lush gardens and fountains. Going around the lake in a clockwise direction, you’ll see the lovely Royal Garden with bonsai, traditional pavilions and ponds, a bird sanctuary with a steamy glassed-in observatory to watch long-beaked storks walk about, a fake waterfall, a dinosaur park.

Dam Sen Park: tel 969-3272, Lac Long Quan & Hoa Binh Q11, admission adult/children 18,000/12,000D (US$1.15/0.75), open 7am-9pm. Dam Sen Water Park: admission 45,000/30,000D (US$2.80/1.90), open 9am-6pm.

PAGODAS
Two pagodas nearby are worth mentioning here. About a half a mile south, Lac Long Quan St veers west, where an alley sign leads down a cobbled road to GIAC VIEN PAGODA. Almost two centuries old, the crumbling pagoda is certainly atmospheric, with funeral tablets lining dark walls in the entrance and altars with ornate Buddha statues and incense sticks. Several monks live in the premises.

A little over a mile north along Lac Long Quan St (past the Au Co St intersection and to the left), GIAC LAM PAGODA (‘Forest of Enlightenment’ Pagoda) is Saigon’s oldest and far most well preserved. It has a sacred Bodhi tree in the courtyard, the gift of a monk from Sri Lanka and inside the hall you’ll see ornate tables with teapots where you’re free to sit and enjoy some tea. Note the two 10-panel illustrations along the right wall. The first, showing an ox gradually growing from black to white, follows the road to ‘truth’, the second traces the grisly sides of Hell, ending with the six types of reincarnation. Particularly interesting is also an exquisite 49-Buddha oil lamp. The monks are very friendly and will be glad to share with visitors about the history of the pagoda.

Giac Vien Pagoda, open 7-11.30am, 1.30-7pm. Giac Lam Pagoda, open 5am-noon, 2-9pm.

HORSES
On the way back to the center, three-quarters of a mile southeast on Le Dai Hanh St, PHU TO RACE COURSE, a fun art-deco-styled race track with food stands, coffee shops, and ballcapped guys squatting over the race sheets can turn out to be an interesting outing. GIs spent free time here during the French and American wars but the communist government closed the place in 1975 and reopened only in 1989. Races go on the half-hour and hour, some betting windows can help place bets in English.

Tel 962-8205, admission 5000D (US$0.30), races from 12.30-7pm Sat & Sun

Here’s information on how to get to Ho Chi Minh city from the airport.

There’s so much to see and do in Ho Chi Minh, and good food and drinks, fascinating bazaars and shops. Nightlife in the city is unbelievably diversify, so join the locals to party and drink, especially on weekends, and stay at one of the many good hotels or hostels in Ho Chi Minh has to offer.

Sunset in Saigon
Photo by pamito

There are many methods you can travel within the city, however it is best explored on foot or bicycles giving you access to the sidewalks and winding lanes in the old city. Here, you can observe and experience the life of the locals more intimately. The city is like a year round carnival of street markets, shops, pavement cafes, stands-on-wheels and vendors selling wares spread out on sidewalks or simply from their bicycles and you cannot help but be exhilarated by the energy from the vibrant atmosphere and enchanted by its old charms.

One thing you’ll discover in Ho Chi Minh is the many priceless moments you get to sit back and reflect. Amidst the hustle and bustle of a city, lies a calming yet serious appreciation of culture and the crafts.

You can see Ho Chi Minh’s top sights in a rush on an overnight stay, but you’ll need at least two days to do them justice, and three or four days to really get a sense of the city. In a week, you can get a good look at most of what Ho Chi Minh has to offer, do some shopping and enjoy day trip out to Cu Chi Tunnels and the Cai Dao Temple.

Take a look. Take a walk. You will be inspired.

Saigon craziness: I walked through the middle of that without batting an eyelid.
Photo by Rock Portrait

Best Time To Go

The ideal period to visit Ho Chi Minh is from January to March as it is the driest months of the year. Temperatures range from 31 in the day to 22 at night thus making it a very pleasant weather for travelling.

From May to October the wet season follows and can be dampening to your travel plans. Do bear in mind that there are risks of typhoon storms attacking the coast during the period of July to November. Also, the climate can vary widely from the South to the North of Vietnam. One of the best way to see and sock in the Vietnamese culture is during the festive seasons, such as the Tet Festival.

My To Do List

- If you’re in Saigon on a Sunday night be sure to rent a two-wheeled vehicle and join the crowd for ‘di choi’. It’s basically a party on wheels with guaranteed loads of fun, where everyone just rides through the downtown streets until the wee hours.
- If the heat starts to get to you, there are several water parks where you can splash around to cool off. Close to the city centre in District 11 is Dam Sen Water Park, just north of the city in the Thu Duc District is Saigon Water Park, there is also the Water World in District 9, Ocean Water Park in District 7, and Dai The Gioi Water Park in District 5.
- Visiting hair salons is also a must do for tourists, as Vietnamese are famous for it. Hair wash, manicure and pedicure cost no more than $10. One nice place to go to is Vu Salon @ 210, Tran Quang Khai, District 1.
- Enjoy a traditional Vietnamese coffee at the many coffee joints in the city and watch the world go by. Sometimes it’s by not doing anything that we see more.

Why Go

A trip to Vietnam will simply not be complete without a visit to Ho Chi Minh. Besides the rich historical background of the former capital, another drawing factor in visiting this city lies in the contrast between the old and the new Vietnam, the cultural and economic center of the country.

High-rise buildings, 5stars hotels and international companies act as a backdrop against well preserved broad elegant boulevards and historic colonial buildings drawing you back to the days of French dominance. War and History museum co-exist side by side with pagodas built since ancient times.

Why Not Go

It is almost impossible to not go to Ho Chi Minh when touring the country’s south. Like Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh is the transit hub of the South for many tourist going onwards to others destinations.

In recent years, however, it has become more and more commercialized and for the traveler looking for some peace and the ‘authentic’ side of Vietnam, this may not be the place for you. The difference is especially striking when you are coming down from the North and it can even feel a little claustrophobic.

Many visitors now just schedule a day or two as a resting stop, confirm their travelling plans or catch up on some shopping.

Beware

- For many tourists, their worst nightmare comes from the bad experience with the taxi/motorbike-taxi/cyclo’s drivers. Many of them don’t speak good English or pretend not to speak English. Sometimes they offer you one price but when you reach your destination it’s another price. It’s recommended to carry a note and a pen with you and write the prices down before hopping onto the vehicle.

Otherwise to avoid these troubles, use the metered taxis only. If possible have a sense of where you are heading to as sometimes the drivers bring you around in loops or out of the city. For long distances such as from the city to the airport, make it clear who’ll pay for the road tolls.

- When you go to local restaurants make sure that the menus have prices printed or ask for the prices. Otherwise, there is a high chance that you will be overcharged and end up having to pay a exorbitant bill.

- Most tours in and around Ho Chi Minh are at the same price. If you find one that is suspiciously cheaper in cafes or roadside agents be aware that often they save costs by cutting corners by going to less places of interest or using old buses with no AC or serving food of very bad quality. It’s better to book from the hotels or tour companies as they are accountable for the quality.

- Be careful when walking along the streets as there have been many reported incidents of drive-by snatchers.

Phong Nha Cave: Near Hue, Vietnam
Photo by discopalace

Spanning over 200,000 ha of land, the park boasts beautiful limestone formations, grottoes and caves, with lush forestland covering 95 percent of the park area. Though nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998, the Park only received official status as a World Heritage Site at the UNESCO’s 27th general assembly session held in Paris in 2003. Phong Nha-Ke Bang, together with Ha Long Bay and Fanxipan of Vietnam, is also nominated for the 7 New Natural Wonders of the World, ranking 10th in the voting list then.

There is a never ending quest for discovery here in Phong Nha – Ke Bang and it is definitely the place to be for nature lovers and the adventure spirited. The park has around 300 caves and grottos in an area of approximately 80km long but so far only 20km of which has been covered by explorers.
• Phong Nha Cave was previously the largest in Vietnam (before Son Dong Cave was discovered) but no doubt the most beautiful still. It’s remarkable for its thousands of meters of underground passageways and river caves filled with plentiful stalactites and stalagmites. In November and December the river is prone to flooding and the underground cave may be closed. Phong Nha means Cave of Teeth, though the ‘teeth’ (or stalagmites) that were by the entrance are no longer there, the rest of the cave remains almost unspoiled

• Tien Son Cave is a dry cave in the mountainside just above Phong Nha Cave. You can walk to it from the entrance to Phong Nha Cave (1,000m) – look for the sign at the foot of the stairs. This cave was discovered in 1935 by locals and named the Fairy Cave due to its extraordinary beauty, later it was called Dry cave to distinguish it from Phong Nha cave which is the water cave. The Chams used the cave’s grottoes as Hindu sanctuaries in the 9th and 10th centuries and till today, the remains of their altars and inscriptions can still be seen. This cave was last used as a hospital and ammunition depot during the War and thus one of the key entry points to the Ho Chi Minh Trail.

• Heaven cave is the large and longer cave than Phong Nha cave. This is a dry cave with no underground river flowing through as Phong Nha cave.Heaven cave ground is soft and flat so it’s easy to visit and explore.

• Just recently, in April, 2009 a team of explorers found Son Dong Cave and much to their surprise it was far larger than the world’s largest cave then – Deer Cave, Malaysia. Son Dong is 5km long, 200m high, and 150m wide compared to the Deer Cave which is only 2km long, 100m high and 90m wide. However, more has to be found out about the cave before they can be opened up to tourists.

My To Do List

While in Phong Nha – Ke Bang, you can embark on the following 3 activities:
- Kayaking to explore the caves including Tien Son cave, Phong Nha cave, Heaven cave, or even Son Dong cave (do take note that this particular cave can be more physically taxing as it requires a10km walk through the forest)
- Eco-tourism in the form of discovering flora and fauna in the national park in Ke Bang Forest.
- Climbing adventure, there are dozens of mountain peaks that are higher than 1000m and these terrains have proven to be challenging even for regular climbers. Of worthy mention are the Peak Co Rilata with a height of 1,128 m and Peak Co Preu, at 1,213 m.

Why Go

With accolades such as the longest water cave, highest and largest entrance, most beautiful swallow holes, largest and most beautiful grottoes, most magnificent and unusual stalagmites and stalactites, longest subterranean river, and the most beautiful and largest stone and sand beaches, the list looks set to go on as more is being learnt about the place. And it’s always a special to come discover a place while its beauty and people are still untainted by commercialism.

Why Not Go

There is no denial that Phong Nha is a place of “heaven on earth” but the experience can sometimes be marred by fellow visitors. No offense but many visitors are Vietnamese and they tend to take a less strong stand on preserving and protecting this beautiful place. Littering, people climbing on stalagmites and smoking cigarette in confined spaces are some of the acts that are prohibited, but enforcement is lax or non existent to say the least.

Best Time to Go

Similar to Northern Vietnam’s weather, Phong Nha – Ke Bang National Park has a typical tropical monsoon weather with hot temperature in summer and high humidity. In summer it can go up to 41°C and it also can drop as low as 6°C in winter. As such, it is not advisable to go there during summer, especially from June to September, although the temperature inside the cave is still cool (around 20°C) but the temperature outside is simply unbearable.From October to May, the weather is more ideal, but do prepare more warm clothing during the month of December to March as the weather can turn cold.

Where to Stay

As the park has been discovered not to long ago, most lodging options are located in Đong Hoi Town and Nhat Le Beach.
For the budget conscious travelers, you will be able to find rooms ranging from $7-20 per night. Pink Hotel (+84 52 3821804), Truong Phap Street, Dong Hoi City for a room around USD10. Hoang Linh Hotel (+84 52 3821 608), Mac Dinh Chi Street, Dong Hoi City for a room around USD12

There are some ongoing projects of resort development in Quang Bình. However, only Sunspa is fully in operation. Room rate is from $70 to $150 depending on facilities and view. Most of the tour agencies will recommend you to stay in Sunspa Resort. Another luxury hotel is Sai Gon – Quang Bình ((+84 52 3822276), 20 Quach Xuan Ky Road, Dong Hoi City, room rate falls within the range of $58 to $128.

Where to Eat

You will not be able to find any eateries in Phong Nha – Ke Bang. So it might be better to pack some food along for the trip. Otherwise, most visitors usually travel to Phong Nha – Ke Bang in the early morning and have lunch on the way back to Đong Hoi Town or Da Nhay Beach.
Seafood is very popular here and the choices aplenty as to how you like them prepared. Highly popular is the Đẻn (a kind of sea snake) and it often featured in a few dishes. The Fish rice soup is also very nice and comforting especially after a tired day of activity or when the weather is cold.

Getting There

Phong Nha-Ke Bang is easily accessible from Dong Hoi City (50km), you can take a taxi, motorbike taxi or a shuttle bus.

To get to Dong Hoi City, there are various connecting options such as bus, train or flight from the major cities.

Buses depart from Hanoi, My Dinh Station frequently. An 11h journey costs around VND 160,000. From Ho Chi Minh, Mien Dong Station the 23h long journey will cost you around VND 280.000.

This Vietnamese saying goes “You may be charitable and lead a religious life for a hundred years, but if you haven’t made it to Yen Tu, you haven’t reached the highest religious bliss.

Yen Tu, Buddhist capital of Vietnam, is famous for its beautiful landscapes, historical relics and ancient pagodas thus making it uniquely positioned in the hearts of the Vietnamese.

Situated within the majestic arched mountain range of north-eastern Vietnam, Yen Tu Mountain in northern coastal Quang Ninh Province bears at its peak the Dong Pagoda. At an altitude of 1,068m above sea level, the breathless climb leads one higher and higher till you find yourself at the top in the pristine of white cloud surroundings. The journey seems to gives one the feeling of a stairway to heavens – away from worries of the world, a peace of mind and heart.

Dong Pagoda: Sitting on the peak of Yen Tu mountain

It is said that the third emperor of the Tran Dynasty, King Tran Nhan Tong (1258-1308), came to Yen Tu after his abdication and began a new life as a Buddhist monk. He dedicated his life to the Buddha – establishing temples, meditation centers, and undertaking Zen missions. Later, he co-founded the Truc Lam Zen School, the first Vietnamese Buddhist Zen Institution.

King Tran was renowned for having led the country to victory over the powerful Mongolian army in two wars in 1285 and 1287. Once the wars were over, he devoted his time and energy to caring for his people and developing the country. He paid special attention to improving agriculture and irrigation systems, allocating land to farmers, developing the economy, improving living standards, encouraging education and preserving culture.

With peace and progress established, the King was determined to lead a religious life and further his learning of the Buddhist teachings which he was most passionate about. In 1293 he abdicated the throne to his son Tran Thuyen (King Tran Anh Tong), although he continued to monitor situations in the country and at times act as an advisor to his son in some political decisions.

Best Time to Visit

Best Time to visit Yen Tu is from January to March during spring time as the weather makes it ideal for hiking up the mountains. This period also happens to coincide with the yearly Yen Tu Festival. The Yen Tu Festival falls on the 10th day of the first lunar month and lasts for three months. The first week is usually the most crowded. Tens of thousands of pilgrims and visitors alike stream into Yen Tu and begin their journey to the uppermost shrine. The worshipers take it as a time to show their belief and piousness and also to seek release from their sorrows and unhappiness for the past year. Foreign visitors take the chance to soak in the serene atmosphere of the festival, get up close and personal with the locals and of course capture some Kodak moments.

Generally, it’s not advisable to go there during summer as the heat can get unbearable. If you would like to avoid the crowds and have more space for yourself, you can visit during the months of September to November as the weather is not as hot and it’s not yet winter.

A Pilgrim’s Journey

The many places to visit along the way are said to replicate the path King Tran Nhan Tong followed on his first pilgrimage. Other pagodas and shrines are built to remind visitors of the places where the retired king took his rest, read books, studied herbal medicine and worked as a blacksmith crafting garden tools.

Cable car up Yen Tu mountain

To the relief of many, the cable car system was introduced in 2002 as an alternative to climbing 6000m of stony steps to reach the top of the mountain. The cable car makes its stop at Hoa Yen Pagoda from which you can continue to explore the sights and hike up to the peak. However, most pilgrims if they are able to, including many old women over 80 years of age, will choose to walk as they believe that taking the challenging path up is a way of expressing their sincerity to Buddha.

The first stop is Suoi Tam (Bathing Brook), where King Tran washed off the filth of his earthly life symbolically before embarking on his life as a disciple of the Buddha. Nearby is a pagoda called Cam Thuc (Fasting) where the king was said to have had his first vegetarian meal of plain rice cooked with water from the streams and vegetables gathered on the spot.

Next you will come to the Giai Oan (Vindication) Stream. Legend has it that as many as 100 of the imperial concubines tried to convince the King to return to the secular life but failed and thus drowned themselves in the stream. In order to give the wandering souls a home and a place for others to remember them by, the king built the Giai Oan Pagoda on the site.

Stairway to Heaven

A short walk takes you up to the Ngoc (Jade) Mount. This is the place whereby visiting royal family members and court officers had to step down from their sedans and proceed up the mountain on foot. The area has dozens of stupas – tombs of monks who led their solitary life in Yen Tu during the Le Dynasty (1428-1788). Not far is another cluster of stupas, the main one being Hue Quang Kim Thap, which surrounded by 97 other smaller stupas of Yen Tu monks from the Tran Dynasty. This is the final resting place of King Tran Nhan Tong.

The largest and most beautiful structure along the entire trail most certainly is the Hoa Yen Pagoda. It is no wonder that this is the place where the retired king meditated, preached and received his successor and court officers.

The path continues past the small Ngoa Van (Lying Clouds) temple, the Mot Mai (One Roof) pagoda, Bao Sai and Van Tieu pagodas at 700m above sea level. The term ‘a walk in the clouds’ takes on a literal meaning here and you cannot help but be enchanted by the mystic beauty of your surroundings. Walking on, you will come to Heaven’s Gate, where the path passes by a high cliff. Here, you will see the 2.2m high An Ky Sinh statue, carved out from the natural rock.

A Pilgrim’s Journey

The ultimate goal is the Dong Pagoda, sitting on the peak of the mountain. The pagoda has statues of Lord Buddha Sakyamuni, and the three founders of Truc Lam Zen School: King Tran Nhan Tong, Phap Loa and Hue Quang. From here you can enjoy a picturesque view of the entire coast area up to Ha Long Bay, a reward well deserved for anyone who made it all the way to the top.

During this time, it’s heartening to see some pilgrims regardless of how tired they are, pushing themselves to complete the journey, possibly deriving strength from their faith in Buddha.

Where to Stay

Yen Tu is only 17km away from Quang Ninh City Center as such there’s not many hotels to stay over. Most visitor visit Yen Tu as a day trip however, for those who would like to extend their stay, they can check the lodging selections available at Quang Ninh Center.

What / Where to Eat

Yen Tu is famous for their ivory bamboo and bamboo sprout and is featured in most of their dishes. The texture and taste makes it different to any other type of vegetables Bamboo sprout can be boiled, fried or simply eaten with sesame seeds and salt for its freshness. There are several restaurants down the mountain serving mostly vegetarian food. Freshly packed in bags or preserved in jars, the bamboo shoots can be purchased for VND10, 000-20,000.

Things to Take Note

- Respect local people’s beliefs and practises because Yen Tu is considered as a holy land of Buddhism in Vietnam.
- You should assess your own health situation before deciding if you are fit to make the hike.
- Bring along a pair of good walking shoes if you plan to climb up the mountains yourself. The way up and down are very slippery in spring festival.
- Cable cabs will not operate on days with strong wind or heavy rain. Therefore, you should check the weather forecast before deciding on whether you can manage the hike both ways.
- Local people there may offer various types of traditional medicine or herb butit will be advisable not to try anything you are unfamiliar with..
- You should be careful with pickpockets while climbing especially during the festival season. Sad but true, there are some people who are not there for the right reasons and they will not hesitate to commit a theft.

How to Get There

From Hanoi, you could take a bus to go to Yen Tu which is 125km away. Bus ticket can be purchased over the counter at My Dinh Bus Station in Hanoi for VND 45,000.