Tan Son Nhat is Vietnam’s largest international airport. There are 2 terminals – International flights departs from the newer international terminal whereas domestic flights (to Hanoi, Danang, Nha Trang, etc) are from domestic terminal (turn left). When you are going to the airport, be specific which terminal you want to go to. Otherwise to make your way to the other terminal, you have to walk with your luggage down the 600m pedestrian link

For arriving passengers, upon exiting the terminal, you will first see taxis from this company called Sasco. They costs slightly more than other taxi companies like Vinasun and Mai Linh, which can be found waiting for passengers some 500m further out into the parking lot. Whichever taxi you choose, make sure the driver uses the meter or you could simply purchase a “Taxi coupon” at one of the counters after the custom declaration & x-ray at international airport terminal, next to the Exchange counter.

As of May 2009, the airport has started using a Taxi queue system (usually at the left end of the terminal). Lookout for the taxi warden standing around the queue line who will radio the taxi for you. (Mai Linh wardens are in green shirt green tie, Vinasun warden are in dark green shirt maroon tie)

Watch out for taxi touts who also dress in white shirt uniforms and holding laminated “fixed prices” cards at $US25.00 per car to the city hotels. With bargaining, they might drop the price to $US15.00 but this is still more expensive than the metered taxis.

Budget Car Rental has recently become the first international car rental company in Vietnam. They offer English speaking drivers and new model vehicles, one trip to the city costs USD80 (fixed price)

By Bus

Airport Bus No.152 is the cheapest way into the city and comes air-conditioned. It will drop you off on the west side of the Pham Ngu Lao area or at the bus terminal on the south side of the Ben Thanh Market roundabout. Upon exiting the airport, turn right and walk towards the domestic airport. There in front of the airport across a small road you will find the bus waiting there. The price was recently increased to 3,000 VND.

Most private tour buses also drop passengers off on Pham Ngu Lao just west of De Tham, which is one stone throw away from the backpacker area.

Street Food: Here’s the stall where i had my first real pork roll in Vietnam. So great to have your favourite food in its native country. There was plenty of action around the stall.
Photo by micz

Budget Choices

There are food stalls set up all over the city and you can find a good selection of them near the Ben Thanh market. Besides the authentic taste, it is also the local charm of eating in these food stalls that adds to the experience. If you would like to their local fast food, the most popular will be the Pho 24 chain. Clean modern chain found everywhere in Ho Chi Minh City serving excellent beef noodle soup at affordable prices.

Along Pham Ngu Lao there are many budget Western selections, and exploring further into the side alleys is always a good idea as they tend to be of better standards.

• Dong Ba, 110A Nguyen Du, Dist 1. This is a shop that sells food from the region of Hue including Hue beef noodles and traditional banh beo rice cakes.
• Pao restaurant & caffe, 158 Bui Vien, Dist 1. This newly opened restaurant has very unique decorations with small instruments, traditional dress, hats, of the minority ethnic group in North of Vietnam. Local Vietnamese fares like Spring rolls, Hot pot, Pho with reasonable price. They have live Vietnamese Instrument Show on every Friday, Sunday.
• Doner Kebab, 198 Bui Vien st., District 1. Situated in the backpacker area, you could easily find this small stall selling Turkish Kebab for 15,000D each.
• Dream Cones, 16 Nguyen Thi Nghia St., Ben Thanh Ward, Dist. 1. Nothing more satisfying than a Gelato ice cream for less than 16,000 dong a scoop when the heat gets to you. Nice quirky and cool neon atmosphere.
• Pho 2000, 3 locations, one sharing space with I Love Burger, one right next to Ben Thanh Market, and the last toward the end of Le Thanh Ton Street. Moment of fame arrived in the form of a visit from the ex-president of USA Bill Clinton. Has excellent pho (including a seafood version), along with the usual Vietnamese rice dishes, including a superb vegetarian curry.
• BanhMiBistro, 76 Vo Thi Sau, District 1, across from Le Van Tam park. Great tasting fresh gourmet sandwiches, especially the famous Vietnamese Banh Mi sandwich. Bread is baked fresh in the store. There are 3 other outlets around town.
• Cafe Lam, 175 Bui Vien, District 1. Excellent restaurant in backpackers area. Huge portions with rock bottom prices. Value for money.

Mid-range Choices

• Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1, HCMC. Black Cat offers one of the best burgers around. Fresh and juicy beef patty. Try their jumbo burger at US$15 for an unforgettable burger experience.
• Barbecue Garden, 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia – Quan 1. HCMC Phone 8233340. Located 100 meters from Ben Thanh Market, behind the General Sciences Library. Specializing in BBQ recipes, the ambiance and music completes the total package of a delightful outing. The restaurant is an amazing place to have diner but also to have a drink (free wifi) during the day for a timeout.
• Chi Nghia, 53 Thu Khoa Huan, near Ben Thanh market. Small place specializing in Northern style Vietnamese cuisine. It’s run by the previous chef of Sofitel hotel, so her cooking and presentation is five star quality, but at affordable prices. Entrees are US$2-5. Very clean, and nicely decorated.
• Huong Dong, 68 Huynh Tinh Cua. A modest, open-air restaurant serving mostly southern country-style food. You might need a few beers though to muster the courage to try some of the more exotic dishes, including field mouse, whole frog, pigeon porridge, and coconut worm. A wide variety of other meats and seafood is available for the more conservative diners. Quirkly English translations of the long menu add to the attraction of the place.
• Lemongrass, 4 Nguyen Thiep Street. Near the Opera House.Vietnamese restaurant leaning on the touristy side. Most dishes are in US$4-6 range, although some seafood items are expensive; try the daily business lunch at US$3++.Opened another outlet on the 14th Floor of Palace Hotel Saigon, 10 minutes away from the first outlet. Same menu, same price.
• Quan An Ngon, 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street. A large and busy Vietnamese chain featuring regional specialties from around the country in the US$3-5 range. The place operates like independent food stalls in the premises. It’s set in an atmospheric old French villa across the street from the Reunification Palace.
• Quan Nuong, 29-31 Ton That Thiep. A delicious, reasonably-priced open-air barbecue restaurant on the roof above Fanny’s ice cream parlor and the Temple Club.Try the bacon wrapped salmon & the beef wrapped cheese skewers. They also serve a variety of mostly southern-style salads and noodle dishes. It’s very popular and often fills up by mid-evening.
• Sushi Bar, with two locations: corner of Le Thanh Ton and Ton Duc Thang in Q1, about six blocks northeast of the Opera House; and on the food-court floor of Zen Plaza on Nguyen Trai. Probably the best sushi around with an extensive range of sushi at value prices. Very popular, so be prepared to wait during the dining hours.
• Spice, 27c Le Quy Don in Q3. Authentic Thai food prepared by their two Thai chefs. In addition to a large selection of classics like Tom Yam Kung and Papaya Salad, they have interesting specials every week do ask the staff for details.
• The City Diner. Authentic 1950s style American Diner with 2 locations. 110 Ho Tung Mau, District 1, and 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, The Manor, Binh Thanh. Great Burgers, Salads, Sandwiches at reasonable prices. A fun atmosphere offering refillable coffee and free wi-fi make this restaurant a favorite with locals, expats and visitors alike. Ho tung Mau location open till late.

Splurge Choices

• Au Lac do Brazil, 238 Pasteur, between Dien Bien Phu and Vo Thi Sau. To remove all doubts that Saigon has everything, here is a Brazilian-style churrascaria (all-you-can-eat restaurant featuring barbecued meat), with live Latin music Tuesday to Saturday. They also have a new outlet in Sky Garden II, Phu My Hung, Dist 7. (Price $30+ per person)
• Co Ngu, on Pasteur just before Dien Bien Phu, Q1. Nice Vietnamese and Asian-fusion food in a Villa setting, with indoor and garden seating. Popular for business groups.
• La Habana, 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, two blocks northeast of the Hyatt and opera house. Authentic Spanish and Cuban-style food with a large tapas menu. Also one of the few places in Vietnam that makes really good cocktails.
• La Hosteria, on Le Thanh Ton a few blocks east of the Hilton. A gourmet Italian restaurant with excellent home-made pasta dishes and desserts.
• L’En tete, 1st floor, 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q.1 (at the junction with Calmette). Excellent French restaurant in an area not normally associated with fine dining. Great for a leisurely dining experience, good food with main courses ranging from 150000-450000 dong.
• Temple Club, 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q.1 (ice cream parlour on first floor) recreates a 1930′s ambiance with separate bar, restaurant, and lounge area. The food is average but most people come to soak up the atmosphere.
• ZanZBar Restaurant & Bar 41 Dong Du Street, Q1 (diagonally opposite Sheraton Hotel) has modern casual-upscale feel with extensive range of international & Vietnamese cuisine (plenty for vegetarians to choose from too). Huge wine-by-glass & cocktail menu. Food is world class and generous in size. Very popular place at any time of the day. As dusk falls, the columns lit up to create a fantastic ambience.

Where to Have a Coffee

Coffee is just an integral part of the Vietnamese’s way of life as the pho. The Cà phê is very popular among the Vietnamese and they drink it many times a day. Being the world’s second largest exporter of coffee after Brazil, it is simply a paradise for coffee lovers.

Typical Vietnamese Coffee
Photo by mengteck

The local style is strong and sweet; important words to remember are: sữa (sweetened condensed milk), đá (ice), and nóng (hot). Cà phê đá is strong, sweet iced coffee; and cà phê sữa đá is the same with condensed milk. The must try for all tourist is the Cà phê (sữa) nóng, freshly brewed in front of you, it’s served in a little metal cup with a sieve bottom and a second fliter base placed over a glass. This Brewer makes an adorable souvenir as well.

Espresso, cappuccino, and American-style filter coffee these days are also widely available in the tourist district, usually at twice the price of the local style.
• Gloria Jeans Cnr Dong Khoi and Nguyen Thiep (opposite the Sheraton). Popular Starbucks-style chain.
• Kem Café Popular local joint with excellent vibe. Pull up a plastic chair and sit on the pavement and a table will appear shortly. Most of the staff don’t speak English though so point to order.
• Cine Café 116 Nguyen Du, inside the Galaxy Cinema complex. Quiet ambiance with views of the park.
• Givral Café, Dong Khoi (opposite Continental Hotel). More in the French tradition, with fresh pastries, collared waiters and elaborate portions of ice cream. Well located, but over 20000 dong for the simplest cup.
• Highlands Coffee is an upscale, somewhat pricey chain serving Western-style as well as local-style brews in prime locations around the tourist district. They also serve food and pastries. Cappuccino costs above 30,000 dong, but the quality is disappointing.
• Cafe Napoly on Pham Ngoc Thach near the Turtle Pond. The decor is Roman-ruin-lite (they meant “Napoli”) but the menu is typical for an upscale Vietnamese cafe — coffee, fruit drinks, ice cream, and a simple food menu including eggs and rice dishes. Piped music is nice and prices are affordable. Houses three sections: an outdoor terrace in front, air-con section on the ground floor, and evening time lounge-bar on the upper floor. Next door is the louder, more trendy Cafe Nam Sao.
• Poppy Café , 217 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3. Modern lounge café where the specialty is fruit-topped natural frozen yogurt. The only café that serves this refreshing healthy treat. Creative fruit smoothies and light Vietnamese + Western fares also on menu. Free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, and English-speaking staff.
• Trung Nguyen, The Vietnamese version of Starbucks with branches all over the city. There are plenty of variations including the infamous weasel coffee (cà phê chồn), made from coffee beans collected from civet excrement. Two convenient outlets are east side of Nguyen Hue right before City Hall, and corner of Thu Khoa Huan and Ly Tu Trong.

Cyclo drivers are notorious for asking one price and wanting more after the ride, but it is still worth the experience to try it out. Make sure you negotiate a price before getting on.

Motorbikes are everywhere- every corner in the city you will see there are motorcycle taxis available. They are inexpensive but it’s better to negotiate a price before you get on. Try to take those waiting on the main street or near hotels.

Bus

With the exception of those tour companies bus, public bus tend to be slow and unreliable and often over-crowded. You might want to take one just for the experience of it since it is definitely a sure way to ‘rub shoulders’ with the locals. Keep watch on your belongings though.

At 3,000 VND a ride, you can also take a public bus to the following bus stations:
• Cho Ben Thanh Bus Station – city centre and within walking distance to most the tourist sites and accommodation
• Mien Dong Bus Station – Buses heading north leave and arrive here.
• Mien Tay Bus Station – Take bus 139 from Tran Hung Dao Street to get here.
• Cholon Bus Station

Taxis

Taxis are relatively inexpensive and a convenient mode of transport especially if the weather is bad. Just make sure you get a metered cab and only pay what’s on the meter.

Boats

In some areas it is necessary to take boats. A recommended ride is to take the hydrofoil from Ho Chi Minh to Vung Tau. Prices are fixed but for some private services you should make sure you negotiate the price before getting on the boat.

Around Dong Khoi St

Dong Khoi, formerly known as Rue Catinat have gone through much transformation so it no wonder that it is now a district of colourful activity – souvenir shops, high-end hotels and galleries aplenty. At Le Loi St, you pass the old OPERA HOUSE. This magnificent building is a classic example of French colonial style building in Vietnam. Built with the purpose of staging classical opera to entertain French colonists, the building was later used as the home of the Lower House assembly of South Vietnam after 1956. It was not until 1975 that it was again used as a theater and the restorative works have been ongoing since 1995.

A block south and you will come to the SAIGON CENTRAL MOSQUE (66 Dong Du St), also known as ‘Jamia Mosque’. In front of the sparkling white-and-blue structure, with its four nonfunctional minarets, is a pool for the ritual washing of oneself as required by Islamic law before prayers. Take off your shoes before entering the sanctuary.

North District One

The following sights, in the northern streets of central District One, are easily seen by foot. From Dong Khoi, you can walk up to the post office, make a left on Le Duan to Reunification Palace, then north on Nam Ky Khoi Nghia to Vo Van Tan (three blocks), and the War Remnants Museum (two blocks west). Or from the palace, go south to the Ho Chi Minh City Museum.

REUNIFICATION PALACE
One of Saigon’s biggest and most prominent landmarks, the Reunification Palace is also one of the most frequented sight and a must see for anybody who’s keen on the history of the country. The palace is well preserved with much of the building left intact as it was at that time Walking through is like walking through Vietnam 1966 – original faded carpets, lacquer wall art, and burnt-orange curtains still hang in some of the rooms.

It will be advisable to join the guided tours (in English) that leave every 10 minutes or so. Tours begin in the wide-open ground floor and go through each floor to the fourth-floor rooftop, where you can see the helicopter landing. The tour ends in the basement, where you can visit the rooms where numerous meetings took place on discussing war strategies. There is also a museum here on the history of the building. Note the famous photo of the VC tank ‘crashing’ through the front gates on April 30, 1975 – the photo was actually restaged (you can see the gate is already knocked down).

106 Nguyen Du; adult/children 15,000/2000D (US$0.95/0.15); open 7.30-11am, 1-4pm daily

WAR REMNANTS MUSEUM
One of the world’s most compelling cases against war is here. No more the rundown ‘Museum of American War Crimes’ with over-the-top propaganda messages. It is not a place that a French or American tourist will leave feeling very proud.

Rebuilt in 2000, the new museum now has eight themed rooms. One such room contains various exhibit honouring many international photographers who died while documenting the wars against France and the USA.

Outside is a recreation of a Con Dao island prison – where VC captured were taken during both wars – as well as a French guillotine, supposedly last used in 1960. Military tanks and artillery line the yard. In the main building, you will come upon visually disturbing sights of jars containing deformed babies (all victims of Agent Orange) and gruesome war photos of decapitated VC soldiers. If you are able to go through the former exhibits without feeling faint, you might be able to sit through a video on Agent Orange which shows at 9am, 10am, 11am, 2.30pm and 3.30pm daily.

Tel 08-939-2112; warm@cinet.vnnews.com; 28 Vo Van Tan, D3; admission 15,000D (US$0.95); open 7.30am to noon, 1.30 to 5pm

POST OFFICE
You do not need to have a reason to visit this ultra-grand French post office, finished in 1891, in Gothic architectural style. Within the elaborate peach-and-green interior a huge portrait of Ho overlooks the whole hall. Note the recently renovated maps of Saigon et sus Environs (1892) and Sud Vietn Nam et Cambodge (1936) on either wall as you enter. Sending a post card or letter to the USA/UK/Australia is 9000/8000/7000D (US$0.55/0.50/0.45). Post cards available for sale here.

2 Coq Xu Paris Q1, open 7am to 9pm daily

NOTRE DAME CATHEDRAL
Established by French colonists between 1863 and 1880, this lovely red bricked building was constructed with all original building materials imported from France – bricks and tiles were from Marseilles and stained glass windows from Chartres. It is flanked by two bell towers, reaching a height of over 58 meters (190 feet).Take pleasure in its neo-Romanesque style architecture which at that time was the most beautiful one in a French colony. The sacred atmosphere inside is indeed very contrasting against the busy traffic right outside the cathedral.

Full services in English are held every Sunday morning at 930 am and are well attended by Vietnamese and foreigners alike. The iconic cathedral has also become a favourite choice of location for Vietnamese couple taking their bridal photos regardless of religion. It’s always a delight to chance upon such special moment and sometimes the whole process can be interesting to watch too.

Dong Khoi & Han Thuyen Sts; visiting hours (supposedly) 8-10.30am, 3-4pm Mon-Fri, plus Sunday mass from 5.30am

HO CON RUA
You’ll see Ho Con Rua (Turtle Lake) towering concrete lotus flower from a few blocks away. What you cannot see though is the turtle statue that used to at the lake. Back then, South Vietnamese President Thieu had it built Ho Con Rua for Feng Shui reasons and the turtle to represent wisdom. However, not long after the fall of Saigon, a group of national minorities apparently blew up the structure and it has been left as it is. Across the street, quiet little cafes serve fresh coconut and coffees, and at night, sellers of dried-squid and balloons set up their pushcarts along the circle.

Pham Ngoc Thach & Vo Van Tan Sts, two blocks north of Notre Dame

HO CHI MINH CITY MUSEUM
This museum houses covers various aspects of the city’s past such as traditional crafts, war relics, traditional Chinese-style Hoa weddings and photos of peace protests in Saigon in 1970. Don’t forget to visit the collection of military hardware outside such as the F-5 jet which apparently bombed the Independence Palace in 1975.

Tel 08-829-9741; 65 Ly Tu Trong D1; admission 15,000D (US$0.95); open 8am-5pm daily

US EMBASSY SITE
Five or six blocks east of Reunification Palace on Le Duan St is the former US embassy where crowds stormed in late April 1975 to try and get on a helicopter to leave the city. It was later demolished in 1998 and is now the walled site of the US consulate. There is not much to see here but you can try to imagine the scene then.

4 Le Duan, between Mac Dinh Chi & Hai Ba Trung Sts

HISTORY MUSEUM
At the end end of Le Duan St, inside the city zoo, the ‘Museum of Vietnamese History’ occupies a great old 1929 French-built place, with Asian-style tiered tower and sunken courtyards. Inside a bust of Ho Chi Minh greets you and exhibits with English subtitles uncovers Vietnam’s past. Don’t miss the Tran Hung Dao bit which illustrated how he mounted wood spikes in the nearby river to pierce Chinese warships in the 13th century. It was a victorious moment in the country’s history, telling the Chinese they couldn’t conquer them. When they got stuck, he sent flamed arrows and they died from fire.’ The museum hosts a water-puppet show at 9am, 10am, 11am, 2pm, 3pm and 4pm (it’s $2 extra).

Tel 08-825-8784; corner of Le Duan & Nguyen Binh Kiem Sts; admission 15,000D (US$0.95), plus 8000D (US$0.50) for the zoo; open 8-11am, 1.30-4.30pm Tue-Sun, zoo open 7am-8pm daily

Around Ben Thanh Market

At the end of Le Loi, a few blocks west of Nguyen Hue, the Ben Thanh Market is the heart of central Saigon. From here, you can visit the Fine Arts Museum just south, then head on to the riverside, or north to the Reunification Palace.

BEN THANH MARKET
Ben Thanh market has long been one of Saigon’s most famous landmark. The market has been in existence since the French occupation. The Market is a little faded but the same cannot be said of the energy level inside. With over 3000 stalls, it is a whirlwind of activity with fresh produce brought in daily from the Mekong, t-shirts stalls, noodle and coffee stands. A good time is to come after 5pm when the street stretches along with open-air seafood and noodle stands, ideal for a meal in the busy action and more people watching.

Corner of Lei Loi, Tran Hung Dao, Ham Nghi & Le Thanh Ton Sts

FINE ARTS MUSEUM
The Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum may not be particularly notable for its art, but it is still worth visiting for they offer a good glimpse into the local art scene. The displays spans over three floors of the building with the first floor showcasing exhibits of contemporary art by local and international artists. This section is changed frequently. The second floor galleries display contemporary art from the museum’s permanent collection. The collection features sketches, paintings and statues, many of which focus on the resistance to the various colonial rulers. Lastly, the third floor displays older works from the first century to the early twentieth century.

Tel 829-4441, 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, admission 10,000d (US$0.65), open 9am-5pm Tue-Sun

HO CHI MINH MUSEUM
Not to be confused with the far superior Ho Chi Minh City Museum, this museum housed in a French colonial era building is located near the dock of Saigon. The life story of the modern day father of Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh and many of his personal possessions is being displayed here as a tribute.

Tel 825-5740, 1 Nguyen Tat Thanh Q1, admission 10,000D (US$0.65), open 7am-11.30am, 1.30-5pm Tue-Sun

North of the Center

The sights here are easiest reached by taxi though you can also reach them by walking from the center.

JADE EMPEROR PAGODA (PHUOC HAI TU PAGODA)
Built by the local chinese community in 1909,the Jade Emperor Pagoda is Saigon’s most impressive. Dedicated to their Taoist God, this colourful temple also houses a number of other deities statues. Beyond the turtle pond to the right side of the red building is where the worshippers pray and thus most atmospheric. Walls blackened by the joss sticks smoke and the Chinese tablets placed inside attest to the history of the place. The Jade Emperor who is responsible for monitoring the entry to heaven is strategically placed iat the back of the main building. Follow the direction he looks to a side ride, down a betel juice–colored hall to the ‘Hall of Ten Hells’. Here, you can see ten wood carved panels depicting scenes from Hell. Old Vietnamese women sell birds outside the pagoda that can be bought and set free – a practice popular with the faithfuls with the purpose of accumulating merits in one’s life.

73 Mai Thi Luu St, half a block north of Dien Bien Phu St; open 7am-6pm daily

WOMEN’S MUSEUM OF SOUTH VIETNAM
Often overlooked by visitors to Saigon, this free well-arranged museum devoted to women of the south is worth a visit if time permits. Spread out over 2 floors, the first floor entails how traditions has evolved with time and you can also find many types of the ao dai (traditional dress) and Vietnamese crafts on display.

Upstairs, the exhibits honors many women revolutionaries who made a difference. Photos include foreign women who supposedly supported the northern cause – including Jane Fonda, who famously visited Hanoi during the war.

Also honored are many teenage women (including Vo Thi Sau, whom the street outside is named for), who would meet their deaths by torture in prison camps. Look for the 1968 photo of a student-protestor Vo Thi Thang, who left a Saigon court with a 20-year jail sentence and escorted by the police with a giant defiant smile on her face – something that made quite an impact on front pages here and abroad.

202 Vo Thi Sau St, D3; admission free; open 7.30-11.30am, 1-5pm daily

Cholon
The largest district of its kind in Vietnam, being in Cholon (big market) is like being transported to a different time and place compared to central Saigon. There are no high-rise buildings here. Old colonial style architecture still surrounds this market and adds to its charm. There are several pagodas within walking distance here but you may wish to just shortlist a few and spend more time at the Binh Tay Market.

PAGODAS
A good starting point is the QUAN AM PAGODA (23 Lao Tu St, off Chau Van Liem, between Hung Vuong & Nguyen Trai Sts), built in 1816 and believed to be Saigon’s oldest existing pagoda. It’s ornate – with woodcarved figures and doorways – but well worn by the normal tourist route, as visitors with cameras shuffle by smoking joss sticks toward the central altar of A Pho (the Queen of Heaven).
A block north, on Hung Vuong St, is a lesser-visited pagoda, the brick-exterior PHUOC AN HOI QUAN PAGODA (184 Hung Vuong, half a block east of Chau Van Liem St). Phuoc An is noted for its finely crafted ceramic walls and arches, porcelain figures, and intricate woodcarvings

TAM SON HOI QUAN PAGODA (118 Duong Trieu Quang Phuc) This pagoda is dedicated to the Goddess of Fertility, Mae Sanh. Many women who wish to have greater fertility will be seen praying and making offerings here in hope of being blessed.

HA CHUONG HOI QUAN PAGODA (802 Duong Nguyen Trai) The four elaborately carved stone dragon pillars make this pagoda well worth a visit. ONG BON PAGODA (264 Duong Hai Thuong Lai Ong. Open 5 am to 5 pm.) Dedicated to Ong Bon, the guardian of Happiness and Virtue, the pagoda features an intricately carved wooden altar. The pagoda sits next to a huge school, so expect to be inundated by throngs of happy and curious kids if you arrive between 4 and 5 pm

TO BINH TAY MARKET & AROUND
From Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda, it’s a five-minute walk (via Chau Van Liem St to Tran Hung Dao St) to the sprawling FABRIC MARKET (Tran Hung Dao & Phung Hung Sts). Fabric shopping in Ho Chi Minh City is a serious affair not to be treated lightly especially with the variety available here. You can find every type of silk in every colour and numerous types of cotton, wool and even tweed!

Looking over Tran Hung Dao St from its western end (a few blocks west) is CHA TAM CHURCH (Tran Hung Dao & Hoc Lac Sts), where South Vietnam president Ngo Dinh Diem and his brother hid following a 1963 coup attempt. Eventually they surrendered and were killed in the vehicle taking them back to central Saigon.

Follow Hoc Lac St south a couple blocks to Thap Muoi St and turn right. Four blocks west this busy thoroughfare becomes Hau Giant St and reaches Cholon’s top attraction, the golden French-era BINH TAY MARKET (Hau Giang St), with a clock-tower and Moorish-style domes and a cramped maze of stalls on two floors. Although the business is mainly wholesale, the sellers will be happy to serve you as well. The aisles are narrow, the din is loud most probably from the noise of all the bargaining of going on, and the people are scurrying about or squatting in the narrow passages to talk or eat but this is what makes the experience more fun. The variety of goods here is positively astounding and will give you uncanny glimpses into modern Vietnamese life.

About ten blocks east of the market, past Chau Van Liem St, there is a row lined with Traditional Medicine Shops and it can be fun to see peek in and see the types of herbs they use. This area has some lovely old buildings was used as the setting for scenes of the controversial film Cyclo in 1995. Serves as an excellent pit stop for a beer or coffee and stretching those tired legs before proceeding on.

District 11

If you’re looking for an unusual day away from tourist hordes and the more touristy parts of Saigon, you can go to District 11. But only if you are really looking for something to do.

DAM SEN PARK
Goofy but well-kept, western Saigon’s Dam Sen Park has been Saigon’s Disneyland for years, where kids come to ride water slides, ferris wheels and bumper cars, and newlyweds pose in front of lush gardens and fountains. Going around the lake in a clockwise direction, you’ll see the lovely Royal Garden with bonsai, traditional pavilions and ponds, a bird sanctuary with a steamy glassed-in observatory to watch long-beaked storks walk about, a fake waterfall, a dinosaur park.

Dam Sen Park: tel 969-3272, Lac Long Quan & Hoa Binh Q11, admission adult/children 18,000/12,000D (US$1.15/0.75), open 7am-9pm. Dam Sen Water Park: admission 45,000/30,000D (US$2.80/1.90), open 9am-6pm.

PAGODAS
Two pagodas nearby are worth mentioning here. About a half a mile south, Lac Long Quan St veers west, where an alley sign leads down a cobbled road to GIAC VIEN PAGODA. Almost two centuries old, the crumbling pagoda is certainly atmospheric, with funeral tablets lining dark walls in the entrance and altars with ornate Buddha statues and incense sticks. Several monks live in the premises.

A little over a mile north along Lac Long Quan St (past the Au Co St intersection and to the left), GIAC LAM PAGODA (‘Forest of Enlightenment’ Pagoda) is Saigon’s oldest and far most well preserved. It has a sacred Bodhi tree in the courtyard, the gift of a monk from Sri Lanka and inside the hall you’ll see ornate tables with teapots where you’re free to sit and enjoy some tea. Note the two 10-panel illustrations along the right wall. The first, showing an ox gradually growing from black to white, follows the road to ‘truth’, the second traces the grisly sides of Hell, ending with the six types of reincarnation. Particularly interesting is also an exquisite 49-Buddha oil lamp. The monks are very friendly and will be glad to share with visitors about the history of the pagoda.

Giac Vien Pagoda, open 7-11.30am, 1.30-7pm. Giac Lam Pagoda, open 5am-noon, 2-9pm.

HORSES
On the way back to the center, three-quarters of a mile southeast on Le Dai Hanh St, PHU TO RACE COURSE, a fun art-deco-styled race track with food stands, coffee shops, and ballcapped guys squatting over the race sheets can turn out to be an interesting outing. GIs spent free time here during the French and American wars but the communist government closed the place in 1975 and reopened only in 1989. Races go on the half-hour and hour, some betting windows can help place bets in English.

Tel 962-8205, admission 5000D (US$0.30), races from 12.30-7pm Sat & Sun

Here’s information on how to get to Ho Chi Minh city from the airport.

There’s so much to see and do in Ho Chi Minh, and good food and drinks, fascinating bazaars and shops. Nightlife in the city is unbelievably diversify, so join the locals to party and drink, especially on weekends, and stay at one of the many good hotels or hostels in Ho Chi Minh has to offer.

Sunset in Saigon
Photo by pamito

There are many methods you can travel within the city, however it is best explored on foot or bicycles giving you access to the sidewalks and winding lanes in the old city. Here, you can observe and experience the life of the locals more intimately. The city is like a year round carnival of street markets, shops, pavement cafes, stands-on-wheels and vendors selling wares spread out on sidewalks or simply from their bicycles and you cannot help but be exhilarated by the energy from the vibrant atmosphere and enchanted by its old charms.

One thing you’ll discover in Ho Chi Minh is the many priceless moments you get to sit back and reflect. Amidst the hustle and bustle of a city, lies a calming yet serious appreciation of culture and the crafts.

You can see Ho Chi Minh’s top sights in a rush on an overnight stay, but you’ll need at least two days to do them justice, and three or four days to really get a sense of the city. In a week, you can get a good look at most of what Ho Chi Minh has to offer, do some shopping and enjoy day trip out to Cu Chi Tunnels and the Cai Dao Temple.

Take a look. Take a walk. You will be inspired.

Saigon craziness: I walked through the middle of that without batting an eyelid.
Photo by Rock Portrait

Best Time To Go

The ideal period to visit Ho Chi Minh is from January to March as it is the driest months of the year. Temperatures range from 31 in the day to 22 at night thus making it a very pleasant weather for travelling.

From May to October the wet season follows and can be dampening to your travel plans. Do bear in mind that there are risks of typhoon storms attacking the coast during the period of July to November. Also, the climate can vary widely from the South to the North of Vietnam. One of the best way to see and sock in the Vietnamese culture is during the festive seasons, such as the Tet Festival.

My To Do List

- If you’re in Saigon on a Sunday night be sure to rent a two-wheeled vehicle and join the crowd for ‘di choi’. It’s basically a party on wheels with guaranteed loads of fun, where everyone just rides through the downtown streets until the wee hours.
- If the heat starts to get to you, there are several water parks where you can splash around to cool off. Close to the city centre in District 11 is Dam Sen Water Park, just north of the city in the Thu Duc District is Saigon Water Park, there is also the Water World in District 9, Ocean Water Park in District 7, and Dai The Gioi Water Park in District 5.
- Visiting hair salons is also a must do for tourists, as Vietnamese are famous for it. Hair wash, manicure and pedicure cost no more than $10. One nice place to go to is Vu Salon @ 210, Tran Quang Khai, District 1.
- Enjoy a traditional Vietnamese coffee at the many coffee joints in the city and watch the world go by. Sometimes it’s by not doing anything that we see more.

Why Go

A trip to Vietnam will simply not be complete without a visit to Ho Chi Minh. Besides the rich historical background of the former capital, another drawing factor in visiting this city lies in the contrast between the old and the new Vietnam, the cultural and economic center of the country.

High-rise buildings, 5stars hotels and international companies act as a backdrop against well preserved broad elegant boulevards and historic colonial buildings drawing you back to the days of French dominance. War and History museum co-exist side by side with pagodas built since ancient times.

Why Not Go

It is almost impossible to not go to Ho Chi Minh when touring the country’s south. Like Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh is the transit hub of the South for many tourist going onwards to others destinations.

In recent years, however, it has become more and more commercialized and for the traveler looking for some peace and the ‘authentic’ side of Vietnam, this may not be the place for you. The difference is especially striking when you are coming down from the North and it can even feel a little claustrophobic.

Many visitors now just schedule a day or two as a resting stop, confirm their travelling plans or catch up on some shopping.

Beware

- For many tourists, their worst nightmare comes from the bad experience with the taxi/motorbike-taxi/cyclo’s drivers. Many of them don’t speak good English or pretend not to speak English. Sometimes they offer you one price but when you reach your destination it’s another price. It’s recommended to carry a note and a pen with you and write the prices down before hopping onto the vehicle.

Otherwise to avoid these troubles, use the metered taxis only. If possible have a sense of where you are heading to as sometimes the drivers bring you around in loops or out of the city. For long distances such as from the city to the airport, make it clear who’ll pay for the road tolls.

- When you go to local restaurants make sure that the menus have prices printed or ask for the prices. Otherwise, there is a high chance that you will be overcharged and end up having to pay a exorbitant bill.

- Most tours in and around Ho Chi Minh are at the same price. If you find one that is suspiciously cheaper in cafes or roadside agents be aware that often they save costs by cutting corners by going to less places of interest or using old buses with no AC or serving food of very bad quality. It’s better to book from the hotels or tour companies as they are accountable for the quality.

- Be careful when walking along the streets as there have been many reported incidents of drive-by snatchers.

Cao Dai Temple
Photo by CurryPuffy

(Built between 1933 and 1955) The structure of the nine-story Cao Dai Temple is part pagoda, part cathedral, part mosque – representing the ideology behind the religion. The exterior – fluorescent shades of pinks and yellows, rococo walls and mosaic-mirrored tiles that glint in the sun seems to find their delicate balance in the chaos. To it top off, the exterior that is already a feast for the eyes, are further ‘accessorized’ with multi-colored dragons of all shapes and sizes. Above the main entrance is the all-seeing Holy Eye, the symbol of the Cao Dai sect. The interior, needless to say, is just as engaging as statues of Jesus Christ, Buddha and the Hindu god, Brahma, stand side by side.

Inside Cao Dai Temple
Photo by Luc D

The three principal colors of Cao Dai are yellow (for Buddhism), blue (for Taoism), and red (for Christianity), and these appear in worshippers’ robes as well as the temple. The most important symbol is the Divine Eye, representing God, which also appears in followers’ homes. It is a left eye, because God is Yang, and Yang is the left side. It has a ying-yang symbol in the pupil.

Within the temple, males must enter on the right and females to the left and shoes have to be removed before entering the massive main hall. Once you step into the temple, you seem to be removed from the hassle and bustle of the outside world and placed into a world of calmness, peace and light.

Prayer Session inside Cao Dai Temple
Photo by Luc D

Services are held four times a day and visitors are welcomed to watch from the balcony above which runs the entire length of the cathedral. Rows and rows of gracefully attired devotees dressed in white stroll into the hall systematically, accompanied by the sounds of the gong. As if on cue, once inside the hall, the devotees kneel down together before the altar signaling the start of the prayers. The priests are easily identified by their white pointy hats decorated with the holy eye and are dressed in either red, blue or yellow flowing robes. The gongs are now joined in by the string instruments and harmonious chanting of the devotees. Photography is allowed here and is an excellent opportunity not to be missed as you will never find another moment like this anywhere else.

Cao Dai Temple Entrance
Photo by Luc D

Getting There

The Cao Dai Temple is located just outside Tay Ninh, 60 miles northwest of Ho Chi Minh City. The easiest and most popular way to visit the Cao Dai Temple is on an organized tour from Ho Chi Minh city.

Most people visit the Cao Dai Temple together with the Cu Chi Tunnels.The bus ride takes about two hours.

Cu Chi Tunnels Illustration

French-fighting Viet Minh troops first began digging these tunnels below a French-colonial rubber plantation in 1948 to hide from bombing. Later, the web of tunnels become like an underground city used by Viet Cong guerrillas as hiding spots during combat, as vital communication and supply routes, food and weapon caches and living quarters. Dug entirely by hand, the tunnels at one time measured more than 120 miles, stretching from the Cambodian border to the outskirts of what was then Saigon.

The crucial tunnels is without a doubt the pivotal factor in how the Viet Cong succeeded in resisting the American forces with their advance warfare and weapons. Numerous attempts to destroy the tunnels never worked and eventually the weary Americans were forced into withdrawal. For many Vietnamese, the tunnels provide a justified source of pride.

Visiting the Site

Trips of Cu Chi’s main site (Ben Dinh tunnel) start with a grainy black-and-white film that charts the history of events during the war and gives a brief background on the tunnels. The tour follows a short looping path past recreated tunnel sites which are built into the ground, with canvas tops to illustrate how life was carried out underground. In the simulated kitchen, guides show how smoke was diverted through mini-tunnels to escape far away from the real tunnel itself.

Now you see me!

Now you DON’T!

Life in the tunnels is harsh. They are made to be extremely narrow to prevent the bigger sized enemies from entering. The openings are small beyond imagination and camouflaged by leaves. A guide demonstrates how villagers and Viet Cong would enter the hidden tunnels during the war. Tourists can make their way through three sections of tunnels ranging from 150 to 650 feet in length. Although these tunnels have been widened to accommodate westerners’ physique, you should probably stay above ground if you’re claustrophobic or have a bad back or knees.

In the “beginner” tunnel

There’s plenty to see above ground. A mock up of a horrific spiked contraptions hidden under trap doors in the jungle floor, craters left by bombs dropped from B-52s, abandoned U.S. tanks you can climb in, mannequins of North Vietnamese soldiers and Viet Cong guerrillas. It seems ironic though that after visiting the sites, some visitors still have the desire to try their hands at shooting the AK-47s and M-16s at the shooting range ($1.50 per bullet).Perhaps the message on the horrors of war was not brought across?

Half day Cu Chi Tunnels tours are widely offered and it is recommended to go with a tour package or guide for a better experience as they will lead you through the exhibits in an organized manner with real life stories to share. Open Daily from 7am to 5pm. Admission costs about $5. This fee is usually not included in the cheaper tours check with the operator if it is not stated.

The Tet Festival is the most celebrated festival in Vietnam. Also known as the Lunar New Year, Tet falls between 19 January and 20 February and lasts a whole week in the south. This festival is celebrated grandly with massive fireworks, bright decorations and friends and families all take this time to dress their best and have a good time.

Buddha’s Birthday Festival

Buddha’s Birthday Festival falls on the 15th day of the Fourth Lunar month. In Ho Chi Minh this festival is a major celebration at the Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda. The temple is decorated extravagantly with colorful lanterns hung prettily. Monks can be seen walking in several processions along the streets and praying thus adding to the Zen atmosphere.

Fisherman’s (Nghinh Ong) Festival

The Fisherman’s Festival(Nghinh Ong Festival) is celebration unique to the district of Can Gio in honor of the whale. The whale is considered a sacred creature amongst fishermen and is worshipped as the God of the Seas.Every Year, on the 16th day of the eighth lunar month, the fishermen do not go out to seaShrines, fishing harbors and boats are all beautifully decorated on this day. It is a festival not to be missed and you should try to factor it into your plans if traveling in Vietnam during this period

Ho Chi Minh’s Birthday

Ho Chi Minh’s Birthday (19 May) The former president was a pivotal figure in gaining freedom for the people of Vietnam and has attained the status of national hero in the hearts of Vietnamese. The city of Saigon was renamed Ho Chi Minh City in his honor and his birthday is widely celebrated in this city.

Others

- Nghia An Hoi Pagoda (15th of the 1st lunar month and the 24th of the 6th lunar month)
- Thien Hau Pagoda Festival (23rd day of the 3rd lunar month)
- Le Van Duyet Temple Festival (1st day of the 8th lunar month)
- Mid-Autumn Festival (15th day of the 8th lunar month)
- Death Anniversary of Tran Hung Dao (20th day of the 8th lunar month)
- National Day (2 September)

22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, D3, Tel 08-933-0577
A John Lennon portrait hangs behind the small drumset – and Yoko Ono makes the business card logo – but inside this intimate, ‘70s-style bar it’s the new Vietnam here. Locals come for beer (35,000D; US$2.20) or cocktails and a smoke while indulging in the diverse selection of live music plays (Willie Nelson, Sheryl Crow, Nirvana, jazz). Monday to Thursday, the sets are ‘unplugged’ with rotating singers, Friday to Sunday features full-on bands (mostly rock). No cover.

SAX’n’ART

28 Le Loi St Tel 08-822-8472
Ever the crowd pleaser, the narrow Sax is a jazz-blues bar with a talented house band that plays from 9pm every night. A Saigon beer sets you back by 55,000D (US$3.45). No cover.

LUSH

2 Ly Tu Trong St, at Dien Tien Hoang St Tel 0903-155-461
Undisputedly Saigon 2007’s premier club, the pavilion-topped Lush deserves mention for its novelty on their design. Once inside the main premise, all lights, seats and dancing place on the rather tight floor looks onto the action – the bar, with eight or more bartenders in halter-tops swaying to the themed music. The whole place is usually packed after 10pm. The food is decent but the main draw here is the drinks which at 35,000D (US$2.20) for a Tiger is far cheaper than most clubs around Saigon. No cover.

SAIGON SAIGON

Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square
The Caravelle’s rooftop iconic bar – Saigon Saigon is an excellent choice to chill out and have a drink while watching the sun set over the city and the changing colours of the city. With the spectacular panoramic view of the city, live entertainment and delicious food, there is not much more to ask for.

GO

2187 De Tham St at Bui Vien St, Tel 08-836-9575
Located in the backpacker district, many come for an afternoon beer or to play pool. It costs slightly more than most traveler cafes in the area but it’s hard to resist this colorful corner with comfortable lounge seats and potted palm trees on the sidewalk.There’s live music upstairs after 10pm.

CAFÉ LATIN

19-21 Dong Du St, a block west of Dong Khoi, midnight Tel 08-822-6363
Central bar is a sports bar offering exciting sports action with reasonably priced bar food (Vietnamese noodles, burgers).Match timings are posted outside and whether you are a soccer, rugby or cricket fan you will enjoy the atmosphere here.

Q BAR

Opera House, Lam Son Sq, on Dong Khoi St
If time is an indication of popularity, the Q Bar having been around since the 90’s certainly ranks high. It led the chic-bar charge of Saigon then and one of it’s trump factor no doubt was its location under the Opera House.

Budget

The main backpacker hangout is Pham Ngu Lao in District 1, a 15 minutes walk from Ben Thanh Market. The small lanes in the area between Pham Ngu Lao and Bui Vien are packed with budget hotels (5-10 rooms) with prices starting from US$6. However, if you keep heading southwest away from the backpacker hustle closer Ng Thai Hoc, you’ll find the hotels in the area gets more peaceful and owners more approachable.
Sometimes, there are ‘agents’ offering you rooms at attractive rates as you disembark from the buses, do not be pressured to get a room on the spot even if they tell you other hotels are fully booked as there are may choices available in this area. If you decide to book a room through them for convenience, do not hesitate to ask them to show you the rooms personally first before paying as they can look quite different from the picture shown.
• Ly (rooms from $13-15), 84/24B Bui Vien Street, District 1, HCMC (A small alley off Pham Ngu Lao St), ☎ 08.38364794 (hanhbtx@yahoo.com). Wonderful guest house with very friendly staff who speak good English. The rooms are good size and come with AC, hot water, cable TV, baggage storage, laundry service, big beds and some with balconies. It may take a bit of navigation to find this place, but worth every bit the effort when you do.
• Duna Hotel, 167 Pham Ngu Lao. Tel: 8373 699. Prices range from US$12 for a single room with no window to US$30 for a triple with a window facing the street. All rooms have A/C, satellite TV, a fridge and are very clean for the price. The staff is pleasant and there is an elevator. The only complaint is that the front door is locked as early as 11 or 12PM and to get back in you must wake the staff sleeping inside by banging the door(loudly!).
• Me Them Hotel , 203 Pham Ngu Lao. Tel: 08 6 2915 407. Me Them B&B provides weary travellers a warm and comfortable place to stay. A home away from home, everyone is very hospitable and makes you feel like family. It’s definitely a good way to interact with the locals and learn about their culture.
• Xuan – Spring Hotel, 185/34 Pham Ngu Lao Street, District 1, ☎ +84-8-8372115 (manager@springhotel.net). Reasonable priced accommodation with good service, price range from $14.00-$D17.00 per day for double room. Rooms are equipped with air-conditioner, refrigerator, cable TV and private bathroom with hot shower. Internet is provided for free.
• Nguyen Khang Hotel (below$15), 283/25 Pham Ngu Lao. Tel: 8 373 566, nguyenkhanghotel@yahoo.com.vn. In a small and quiet alley that links Pham Ngu Lao and Do Quang Dau. This particular hotel has a nice vibe, helpful staff, free Internet and free breakfast. Recently renovated, the rooms are clean, tastefully simple in decoration with window, air-con, fan, TV and fridge (those at the front have nice large windows).
• Ngoc Minh Hotel, 283/9 Pham Ngu Lao. Right next to Rainbow Hotel this clean hotel with friendly staff and free wi-fi is a good alternative. Prices start from $12 for a room with no windows.
• An Phuong 2 ($15), 295 Pham Ngu Lao. Tel: 08. 920 5509 / 08.836 9248, anhphuong2@yahoo.com. Situated directly across from where the buses drop tourists, it is a friendly family-run guesthouse, very clean and homely. Free internet, cheap laundry and all rooms have double glazing.

Mid-range

The area around Ben Thanh market along Le Thanh Ton and Ly Tu Trong has many reasonably priced hotels with clean rooms in the US$25-35 bracket.
• Ngoc Ha, 53, Le Anh Xuan. Close to Ben Thanh market and the New World Hotel. Clean and decent rooms, air-con, fridge, Wi-Fi in the lobby. Rooms price range from $25-35 including simple breakfast.
• Hotel Bi Saigon , 185/26 Pham Ngu Lao (in alley #185). Tel: 8360678. Offers a “Superior” room for two costing US$27, but clean, comfortable and terrific staff. In-room Internet access costs $3/day. Situated at the lobby – the La Table De Saigon restaurant serves great food and is perfect place to get a snack before heading out on the town.
• Y Thien, 247 Ly Tu Trong. Tel: (84-8) 824 8176. This full service hotel is 5 minutes from Ben Thanh Market and offers a wide range of rooms from tiny and windowless to nice rooms with a full wall window overlooking the city and streets below. Rooms are clean, bathrooms are large and recently upgraded, cable TV, air-con, fan, fridge, elevator and safes in rooms. If you don’t want to stay in the backpacker area, and are willing to pay a little more, it’s a good option.
• Spring Hotel , 44-46 Le Thanh Ton Street, District 1. Tel: (84-8) 829-7362. This boutique hotel is clean and within walking distance to major attractions like Ben Thanh Market and Cathedral. Prices range from $32-$74.
• An An Hotel 40 Bui Vien Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Tel: (84-8) 3837-8087 this hotel is clean, popular and offers comfortable rooms in the centre of the action on De Tham, free wifi in room and lobby. Prices range from $40 for a Superior Double room to $50 for a Luxury Double room. It is probably wise to book ahead as they are usually fully booked.( email: ananhotel@anan.vn)
An An also have a newer branch – An An 2,216 De Tham Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.Tel:(84-8) 3838-5665 about 20 meters down from the original An An hotel. Rooms range from standard to luxury, $22 (with window) for standard single ,$25 for double and $36 to $50 for superior and luxury with balcony and their service is excellent.(email: anan2hotel@anan.vn)
Many of Saigon’s historical hotels are controlled by the Vietsmile, the former state monopoly. Thanks to recent competition, service and facilities improved vastly though still not quite up to modern standards. But if you want to experience a little colonial atmosphere, they are by far the best choices.
• Continental Hotel, 132-134 Dong Khoi Street. A geographically located old-school colonial hotel dating back to 1880 and the setting of Graham Greene’s The Quiet American. Lovely breakfast garden, huge rooms, nice balcony views though slightly expensive at $60 onwards. On the minus side, there is no pool, and traffic noise can be irritating.
• Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue Boulevard. Found in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, next door to the People’s Committee Hall. This is the former haunt of the press corps and site of the daily news briefing during the Vietnam War. The 5th floor beer garden (Rooftop Garden) is famous with its symbol, the golden crown. Slightly more expensive at $70 onwards, but the rooms are very pleasant. There’s a swimming pool on the roof and an excellent buffet breakfast.

High End

With the fast paced development of the city in recent years, international hotel chains are quick to jump on the wagon and make their presence felt in Vietnam. These luxury hotels are mostly located in the heart of the city centre.
• Park Hyatt Saigon ($220 – $520), 2 Lam Song Square (Adjacent to Opera House), ☎ +84.8.824.1234. Newest 5-star hotel at the tourist center of District 1. Quiet and sophisticated with no tourist club/bar. Breakfast buffet is world-class.
• Caravelle (prices from $188), 19 Lam Son Square @ Dong Khoi, across from the Opera House. This Hotel with more than 50 years of history was home to many war correspondents during the war and the rooftop bar back then was their local “watering hole”. Offers in-house restaurants and spas. Ideal location downtown and only a short drive from the airport.
• Mövenpick Hotel Saigon (Prices from US$120), 253 Nguyen Van Troi Street, Phu Nhuan District, ☎ +84 8 3844 9222 (hotel.saigon.reservation@moevenpick.com, fax: +84 8 3844 9200).The only 5-star hotel in the Phu Nhuan district, this hotel is located near the exhibition centre and airport and some 20 minutes from the city centre. The 251 rooms and suites are designed to accommodate both short- and long- staying guests. Broadband Internet is available in all rooms.
• Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, District 5, ☎ +84 8 38336688 (reservations@windsorplazahotel.com, fax: +84 8 38336888). The first domestically owned 5-star hotel in Vietnam. This grand 405-room luxury hotel is in Cholon, the historic China Town making it accessible to many pagodas, temples and the famous Binh Tay Market. Resident restaurants features an extensive Western and Asian buffet on 4th floor, a Chinese restaurant serving live seafood, southern Chinese cuisine and dim sum, and a rooftop international restaurant that has panoramic views of Cholon. Guests can take the free hourly shuttle provided to the business district.
• New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, ☎ (84 3822 8888. A single bedroom suite on the Executive Floor costs US$250 including butler service, free flow of food and beverages during the day, and unlimited drinks in the executive floor lounge every night. The wide spread selection the seafood dinner buffet in the Park View Coffee Shop for US$20 is fantastic. On the downside, the rooms can be noisy, and the air conditioning is weak in some rooms.
• Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, District 1 (central downtown), ☎ +84 8 824 1234 (saigon.park@hyattintl.com), 5 star hotel with a collection of contemporary art and a variety of dining options including al fresco. They also have a 20m pool and the popular Xuan Spa.
• Sofitel Plaza Saigon (prices from $160-$300), 17 Le Duan Boulevard, District 1, ☎ +84 8 8241555 (reservations@sofitelsaigon.com.vn, fax: +84 8 8241666). Compared to other top-end hotels, the Sofitel is closer to the universities and consulates of District 1, and farther from most of the shopping, restaurants, and nightlife.