Ho Tay Lake Water Park

Ho Tay Lake Water Park

In summer the Ho Tay Lake Water Park is a great place to take the kids. The heat of Hanoi can be draining so it is comforting to know there is a place to relax, cool off and keep the kids happy. The park has an assortment of rides, pools, slides and even water games. It is a big attraction for the locals so if you are all about some fun in the sun then the Water Park is the place to be. Entry is from 30,000-50,000 VND depending on your height. There are snack foods available so it’s easy to make a day out of it.

Things to consider
It is fair to say the conditions are perhaps not up to western standards. The toilets are not the best and even though there are guards on watch I would keep an extra eye on the kids when they are in the water, especially if they are not strong swimmers.

Where
The Water Park sits on the cities West Lake and is about a 15 minute taxi ride from the centre of town.

When
The Park is only open in the hotter months from April to November with operating hours of 9am to 9pm.

Thu Le Park & Hanoi Zoo

The Hanoi Zoo, a small zoo, sits within the boundaries of the vast Thu Le Park. The zoo has a range of monkeys, big cats, birds and reptiles which will keep the kids interested. The animal cages are dotted throughout the park so you can wander around looking at different animals while enjoying the park at the same time.

The surrounding park is a great escape from the busy and polluted streets of Hanoi and you will feel you can breathe easier there. The kids can enjoy the pedal boats around the lake as well as the nearby fun park.

Admission is very cheap at 2,000 VND.

Things to consider
The cages are somewhat smaller than you might be used to, however the animals situations aren’t terrible as you can find in other Asian zoos. The rides in the fun park are quite run down in appearance but they generally look safe.

Where
The Hanoi Zoo & Thu Le Park is around 5km west of the city centre on Bach Thu Le and will take around 10 minutes in a taxi.

When
The Park and Zoo are open daily from before first light to around 10pm at night.

Megastar Complex

The Hanoi cinema is an extremely modern setup showing the latest films in the comfort we are used to back home. This is a great place to take the kids, giving them a break from the streets outside. The complex shows all the films in English with Vietnamese subtitles. There is the option of 2D and 3D viewing for some films and also plenty of drinks and snacks to choose from.

Prices are between 40,000-80,000 VND and for the quality you receive the cost is more than reasonable. Check the website for discount days and times if you want to save a few dollars. On the 5th floor of the complex is a massive games arcade which will leave the kids drooling. Before or after the film you can shop and eat in any of the up market shops found throughout the four floors of Vincom City Towers.

Things to consider
It is hard to find a problem here and my only issue is that the Vietnamese have no qualms in having a detailed conversation in the middle of the movie. I wouldn’t let this discourage you, as often there are plenty of free seats, and if they do start chatting away you can easily move to another area of the cinema.

Where
You can find the cinema at 191 Ba Trieu Street on the 4th floor of the Vincom City Towers, only a 5 minute taxi ride heading south from the city centre.

When
For viewing times I suggest you check out the Megastar website http://www.megastarmedia.net/index.aspx?visLang=2 which has an English translation option.

Hanoi Star Bowl

The Hanoi Star Bowl is the cities answer to ten pin bowling and can make for a fun few hours. There are plenty of lanes available as well as a range of snacks and drinks. Downstairs there are a bunch of video games the kids can play if they have had enough of the bowling. The price per game is from 15,000-25,000 VND.

Things to consider
The balls are not in great condition and it is sometimes hard to find the lighter weights which can be a problem for the little ones.

Where
The Hanoi Star Bowl is at 2B Pham Ngoc Trach Street in Dong Da District about 15 minutes by taxi, south west of the city centre.

When
The bowling opens from 10am everyday and closes late at night.

Water Puppet Theatre

If you are looking for something a little more authentic then you can’t go past the water puppet show. You won’t find this form of theatrical art anywhere else in the world so I suggest you add this to the list of musts while in Hanoi.

Tickets cost from 20,000-60,000 VND; a little more if you want to take in a camera.

Things to consider
The shows are very popular and can book out so save disappointment and book in advance.

Where
The best Water Puppet show in town is at 57B Ding Tien Hoang Street on the North-east side of Hoan Kiem Lake. For anyone staying in the Old Quarter you can make your way on foot.

When
Performances take place every day of the week. Starting times are 15:30 PM – 17:00 PM – 18:30 PM – 20:00 PM – 21:15 PM. For more information have a look at their website which has an English translation http://www.thanglongwaterpuppet.org/homepage.asp

Best of the Rest

Hanoi Central Circus: The circus runs Tuesday to Sunday (8-10pm) in a large tent on the northern side of Lenin Park. On Sunday morning at 9am there is a special performance for kids. It is around 40,000 VND per person.

Swan Pedal Boats: As well as Thu Le Park the swan pedal boats can also be found on the southern side of Ho Tay Lake and Truc Bach Lake. Prices are 30,000 VND for 30 minutes and 60,000 VND for one hour.

Fanny Ice Cream: For most kids there isn’t a better attraction than some tasty ice cream. Fanny’s ice cream is located on Le Thai To Street on the south-west side of Hoan Kiem Lake. Prices start from around 15,000 with an abundance of choice available. The first Friday of the month has an all you can eat buffet for 75,000 VND per person.

Dalat, meaning the ‘river of the Lat people’, is a romantic getaway for Vietnamese. Upon arrival you will undoubtedly see tandem bicycles, young university students and cozy couples all blending into the scenery to help give this town a lovely air of old-school romance. However there’s plenty of action (of an entirely savoury variety) just outside of the city too! Countless wonderful excursions to fill your days including visits to traditional local minority villages, cycling through nearby pine forests and abseiling down pristine waterfalls. Dalat makes for a great two or three day visit and will help give you a refreshing understanding of the Vietnamese people and landscape.

Dalat was, until only 150 years ago, a land of hill tribes and wild pristine forests filled with tigers, elephants and rhinoceros. This all changed in the early part of the 20th Century when the French established a hill station here as a retreat for those who worked in the sweltering heat of Saigon. The town also served to help oversee and control the tea and coffee plantations nearby. The last Nguyen Emperor, Bao Dai, in the 1920’s and 30’s, built palaces here so he could relax and hunt – a golf course was even built – and soon Dalat developed into the welcoming town it is today.

Dalat Central Market, Dalat, Vietnam: I took this shot from the upstairs, prepared food level. I spent hours at this market — the produce is shown here, and there was entire other room that had meat products, rice, and eggs. Fantastic.
Photo by jen maiser

Why not go to Dalat

Dalat isn’t famous for a vibrant nightlife or white sand beaches and warm weather. However it is a great visit for a different perspective on life in Vietnam. If you are only in the country for only 10-14 days and you want to cover Vietnam’s most popular destinations and highlights then you may find yourself hard pressed to find enough time to squeeze it in as a 2 or 3 day side trip.

Why go to Dalat

Dalat is all about taking a break from the crazy, helter-skelter pace which has been chasing you through most of the major centers in Vietnam. If you feel like all you’ve seen in Vietnam is 100,000 motorbikes, busy streets and relentless construction in a drive to modernize, you may need a time-out from all of that. Dalat could be just for you.
Dalat is such a change that many tourists who have flown in from Saigon or Hanoi have had to be reminded that they are not, in fact, in an entirely different country! The landscape is different, as are the people, the cuisine, the pace of life … even the air is fresh! Beyond all of this Dalat is a great base for checking out many of the nearby attractions including waterfalls, national parks, minority villages and for the historians out there the legacy of the French influence in Indochina can be seen through the old and kitsch French architecture.

Best time to go to Dalat

Without a doubt the best time of year to visit Dalat is during the annual flower festival which usually falls in December or early January. The 2010 festival runs from January 1st – 4th. Dalat is a wonderful place to visit most of the year, however during the local rainy season (April to November) you may find Dalat more dreary than otherwise. Having said that even in the wet season Dalat is still enjoyable in the mornings. Typically at the end of summer (around March), Dalat is dry, not as green as usual, which can spoil the impression of the town for some visitors.

Where to stay in Dalat

Hotels abound in Dalat, but if you are looking for a cheap and cheerful local option with a great central location then head to Viet Phong (30 Khu Hoa Binh) which is just near the top of the stairs, above the central market in town. However for something more luxurious and beautiful spoil yourself with a reservation at the Ana Mandara Sixsenses Hideaway (Duong Le Lai.) The secluded location and private restored villas from the 1920s and 1930s make this an amazing place to settle in for a few nights if you can afford the price tag.

Where to eat / dine in Dalat

A great local eatery can be found at Ngoc Duy (14b Hunh Thuc Khang Street – not far from Crazy house.) Their vegetable soup, venison and banana flambé are to die for! Another great option is the Café de la poste (Tran Phu) which is opposite the Novotel hotel in town, they do a great breakfast.

Nightlife in Dalat

Saigon nites (Hai Ba Trung street) is probably your best option in town. However for a cozy and quiet setting try Larry’s bar underneath the Sofitel hotel. This quiet little bar runs a great happy hour and is a fun place to have a few drinks and imagine what life in Dalat would’ve been like back in the middle part of the 20th Century.

My to do list in and around Dalat

• The Dalat market is my favorite market in all of Vietnam. The produce available is incredibly diverse and the candy section as you first walk in can keep you busy for hours with taste testing (eagerly encouraged by the sellers!) Make sure you try one of the local specialties, artichoke tea.
• The Dalat cable car (opened in 2003) is a must as it carries you soundlessly over forests, vegetable gardens and right down to a beautiful pagoda that lies above the Quang Trung reservoir. The views from the cable car station back over town are great.
• Bao Dai’s summer palace (which is now a museum) would’ve been a fun place to call home. Completed in the 1930s it adhered to the popular trends of the time and is now very kitsch in it’s art-deco design.
• A morning walk around the 7km Xuan Huong lake in the middle of town is a wonderful way to take in the sites of Dalat.
• A visit to Prenn waterfall is worthwhile, especially for the kids, who will definitely enjoy the luge/bobsled down to the base of the falls.

Stay away from

Avoid walking through the back of the local market unless you are interested in seeing live animals which are soon to become meals. Also be wary of hiring a bicycle and cycling around the city unless you have a good map and are prepared to tackle the hills. Be aware that the streets in Dalat make it a very easy place to get lost, so take a business card from you hotel whenever you head out. At night, keep an eye out for the local Eiffel tower (a telecommunications tower), the central lake or the market to keep you bearings.

Getting there

There are daily flights to both Hanoi and Saigon. Bus connections are also available to Saigon, (6-9 hours), Nha Trang (4-5 hours), Mui Ne (6-7 hours) and Hoi An (10-12 hours.) There is a local train but this only runs a short distance to the Linh Phuoc pagoda and returns along the same track. If you are interested in the train trip keep in mind that the train only runs when there are enough passengers so inquire at your hotel, or at any of the tour agencies in town, for possible departures.

Street food at Hanoi: Food stalls in the small alley ways of the Old Town of Hanoi
Photo by kirksiang

From the early hours of the morning ladies begin preparing their specialty dishes on their allotted street corners waiting for the sun to rise and the customers to start flowing… and flow they do: rich and poor, young and old… street food is for everyone and its principle fits perfectly into the pace of the city.

Approaching the small plastic tables and chairs filled with buoyant locals can be a daunting prospect especially as the menu, usually written on a large board at the front of the restaurant, is only in Vietnamese. The locals will usually speak little to no English as well which begs the question “What are they going to bring me”? Fear not, as with a small bit of preparation and a general understanding of the street food in Hanoi you will soon be ordering and eating like a local.

Despite the variety of street food available most places will serve only one or two dishes. If the person sitting next to you is eating something that looks appealing, just point at their meal and the job is done. Nonetheless, I still think that knowing the words of the dishes you want to try is invaluable while quite easy to learn.

Below is a list of some of the popular street foods offered in Hanoi. You may find that once you start your street food adventure you will not want to stop and will happily skip on the western seats and air conditioned rooms for quick and tasty meals served on the sides of busy roads.

Phở

Photo by shok

Phở bò – beef noodle soup (Phở bò tái: half cooked beef, Phở bò chin: well done beef).
Phở gà – chicken noodle soup

Bún

Photo by nicole1980

Regarding bún dishes, you will be spoilt for choice in Hanoi and below are only some of the varieties you can choose from:

Bún chả – grilled pork noodle
Bún bò – beef noodle
Bún riêu – crab noodle
Bún ốc – snail noodle
Bún đậu – tofu noodle

Xôi

Photo by herethere

Xôi gà – sticky rice with chicken

Bánh cuốn

Photo by stylelab

Lẩu

Photo by superciliousness

BBQ

Photo by fireforge_photo

Bread and pâté

Photo by martywindle

Chè

Photo by jenmaiser

Costs

Street food as a whole is extremely inexpensive. Most dishes will not cost more than a few dollars. The hotpot and BBQ can cost a little more however with a few friends you won’t be paying much at all.

Where to go

Half the fun is trying any random place you come across and with stalls on virtually every street you will not have to look far to find them. If you don’t want to take the risk and are looking for some proven performers have a look at the below two blogs as they have some great suggestions:

Savour Asia
Sticky Rice

How you decide to eat in Hanoi can shape your memories of the place so my suggestion is ignore any inhibitions you might have and embrace the street food experience. You won’t regret it.

The Buffalo Festival of Do Son
Photo by Joshua Owen

Seconds stretched into minutes. It was time for action. Busting with anticipation I took it upon myself to speed up proceedings. Hoping to spur the animals into action, I called on my very best Vietnamese and boomed a mighty, “cố lên!” (‘rise up’ or ‘give it your best shot.’) In an instant all heads turned. My face burned with the eyes of countless, hot and frustrated Vietnamese. The tension was palpable.

Look at the crowd!
Photo by Joshua Owen

I frantically racked my brains to work out what social faux pas I had committed, or was it the mispronunciation of my basic Vietnamese? Then as if so often the case with these friendly and playful people a sea of smiles signaled a call to arms and in unison the 100 or so people around me echoed my sentiments with a far mightier shout of “cố lên!”. The suspense suddenly broken the bulls charged toward each other and locked horns in their now, all too familiar, embrace.

I had known of this festival but had never had the opportunity so when a Vietnamese friend asked if I was interested I lept at the opportunity. I’m not sure what I expected, certainly not a bloodbath, perhaps something similar to a Spanish bullfight but with a Vietnamese flavor to it. In the end nothing I could have imagined would have prepared me for the day ahead.

We left Hanoi around 3am on the Sunday morning hoping to arrive well before the first bout and secure some decent seats. How wrong we were! Arriving well before 8am the stadium was already overflowing with spectators and many more were jostling and pushing impatiently outside hoping to sneak in. Gates were closed, but the more adventurous and nimble outsiders scaled walls, trees, buildings and even TV trucks to get inside. We waited outside one of the gates sweating in the sun and mud and able to hear the cheers but not see a thing until just after the second bout of the day when we were able to squeeze our way in.

The Stadium
Photo by Joshua Owen

The atmosphere was electric. Thousands of people ringed the soccer stadium not dissuaded by the searing sun and warm temperatures. We couldn’t find any spare room in the stands but were able to stand a few rows back right on the fence at one end of the pitch to catch glimpses of the action. It was a fantastic experience.

The buffalo fighting festival is held in Do Son, a small beach town about 20kms south east of Haiphong city. Do Son is a very popular seaside retreat for Hanoians as it is only a 2½ hour drive from the city. It has one of the only casinos in the country and is famous for its fresh and local seafood, relaxed atmosphere, gambling, numerous ‘karaoke’ and ‘massage’ establishments and of course the annual buffalo fighting festival.

Haiphong is also a popular destination and is the third largest city in Vietnam, after Saigon and the capital, Hanoi. Haiphong has always been an important port city in Northern Vietnam linking trade and commerce to the capital. It is also a gateway to Cat Ba Island and the southern section of Ha Long Bay National Park.

The annual buffalo festival (called “lễ hội chọi trâu” in Vietnamese) is held on the 10th day of the 8th lunar month, which usually falls in September or October of each year. One of the more famous traditional festivals in Vietnam, the buffalo festival of Do Son is held to honor the local Water God and also to represent the fighting spirit of the local people. The bulls that are selected to fight are usually aged between 3-5 years and have had to prove their mettle in smaller regional competitions in order to qualify for the main event.

The 32 qualifiers then face off over 5 knock-out or elimination bouts to determine the overall champion. The festival starts very early in the morning at about 7.30am with each bull being led out by a procession of 12 handlers or trainers who wear bright red and yellow silk costumes and wave colored flags. Each of the bulls have a number painted on their side to allow pundits to put on wagers and the numbers also help the crowd distinguish between the two. Even though gambling is technically illegal in Vietnam, plenty of side bets can be found in and around the stadium which garner the interests of many of the locals. The competition is televised nationally with millions tuning in to watch the festival.

Locked in Battle
Photo by Joshua Owen

On the day, some of the bouts will last only a few minutes, with one bull quickly gaining the upper hand and forcing the other bull to turn and flee. If one of the bulls no longer chooses to fight and runs from it’s opponent then it is out of the tournament and sent straight to a tent just outside the stadium to be slaughtered. In fact eventually all 32 buffaloes are turned into table treats! Some of the fights though are long and drawn out and can take up to an hour to determine a winner with bulls often standing just a few feet apart and sizing up their opponent, heightening the suspense and making the win all the more gratifying!

The bulls fight by charging head first into each other and locking horns. They then try and gain the upper hand by forcefully and sometimes violently pushing their opponent backwards. If this is not enough to send their competitor running then the buffaloes often begin torquing their necks, using their interlocked horns as leverage, in an attempt to twist the other buffalo off balance. When a bull backs down and pulls out of the contest it then quickly retreats from the more dominant male. This is the end of the battle but sometimes just the start of the action for the spectators.

Rodeo clowns trying to stop the fight
Photo by Joshua Owen

Sometimes the dominant bull will chase the loser around the stadium in hope of further asserting its supremacy. At this, one (or many) of the very colorful “rodeo clowns” run into the ring to intervene and stop the fight, grinning and taunting as they do, they wave flags, and run in between the surprisingly fast animals. At times, the rodeo clowns will, in sheer desperation, resort to holding on to tails and horns and using absolutely any and all means necessary to separate the two bulls. The winner is led away and prepared for the next bout while the loser is whisked away to be prepared for sale.

Buffalo meat for sale
Photo by Joshua Owen

The overall winner is crowned with a handsome reward of around 40 million VND (over $2000 USD.) Purchasing just a few hundred grams of your favorite bull is an easy task. Tables are lined up outside the stadium with numbers indicating exactly which bull you can buy. Many spectators grab some meat on the way out to take home and share with the family. Others trundle off to nearby seafood restaurants where a plate of buffalo is the specialty of the day and they charge an arm and a leg for it too!

Halong Bay

Halong Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage site, situated in the Golf of Tonkin, is without a doubt one of the main attractions in Vietnam. The sheer beauty of the thousands of limestone islands and islets makes this a scenic wonderland.

Tour operators offer day trips from Hanoi which includes all transfers to Halong Bay, access to the boat and a tasty seafood lunch. Depending on your tour you will get the option of spending your time kayaking or seeing the caves or possibly stopping at a small beach.

The Kangaroo café www.kangaroocafe.com offers some great small group options which don’t break the bank. You also have the choice to book a private tour for those romantics out there. For two people the all inclusive cost is around the US $120 mark. Each person after that drops around US $15 so if you have extras or are happy to join a group the price is very reasonable.

Things to consider
Halong Bay is a beautiful part of the country and you could find the return trip a bit on the lengthy side if done on the same day, so if you have the time you may consider a two day one night option. If however you only have the day, then you should definitely fit this trip into your plans.

Halong Bay
Photo by Andrew Hux

Competition for your money is rife amongst the tour operators and the end result is cheaper prices. The problem is that many operators can’t provide the service they advertise and do not offer any follow up service, often because they act purely as ticket sellers for other companies. I suggest paying a bit more and staying away from the budget options.

For those who don’t care about the service and just the end result will be plagued with choice in Hanoi’s Old Quarter as every couple of shops offer day trip tours to Halong Bay. Hunt around and you won’t pay much at all.

Buffalo tours www.buffalotours.com is another good choice which offer good trips to Halong Bay.

Jewel of the Delta

Travelling along the Red River on a private boat is definitely a good way to see the countryside of Northern Vietnam. After cruising down the river in the morning you make a stop and transfer onto bicycles giving you the chance to ride through the surrounding villages. The twisting roads will take you to some of the better known handicraft villages. Once back on board you are treated to a five course meal before stopping at Bat Trang Ceramic village, on your way back upriver.

Things to consider
The tour definitely allows a hassle free adventure along the Red River where everything is organised. Buffalo Tours sells this tour for around US $80 per person as a private option. If discovering the countryside is your main aim and you want a bit of adventure then I would recommend hiring a pushbike and making the trip yourself. Hiring a bike is no more than a few dollars and is a great way to escape the tourist path and feel a part of Vietnamese society. A trip from Hanoi to the ceramics village of Bat Trang is approximately 10km southeast from the centre, over Long Bien Bridge.

Ninh Binh

Travel a few hours south east of Hanoi and you will reach Ninh Binh. From there a 9 kilometre drive will take you to some of the most striking scenery in Northern Vietnam: Tam Coc. A stunning 2 hours boat ride takes you through the magical limestone landscapes often referred to as the Halong Bay on land. Also not far from Ninh Binh is Hoa Lu, the ancient capital of Vietnam. Day trips to this region can also include stops at the Phat Diem cathedral and the Bich Dong pagoda.

Tam Coc Caves
Photo by TTVo

Things to consider
As with Halong Bay, decide what you want out of the experience and book a tour accordingly. There are private and group tours available for US $65 for which the service levels are high. You can pay half that and hope for the best.

Perfume Pagoda

Around 70km from Hanoi among the limestone rocks you will find a truly striking and spiritual setting. Here you will have the chance to view many of the pagodas and shrines of the area. The Perfume Pagoda is found within a cave built into the cliffs and you can only access by boat (90 minutes) followed by a steep mountain walk. There is now a cable car taking you to the top but if you can handle the walk it is worth it. The experience of getting to the pagoda is one in itself with the amazing landscape a wonder to enjoy.

Perfume Pagoda
Photo by alejandroglobal

Things to consider
The pagoda is not only a big tourist attraction but is extremely popular for the locals as well. For this the area can get very busy so check before booking a trip if the Buddhist pilgrims are there in numbers. This can make for an interesting experience but if you prefer some peace and quite out of Hanoi Ninh Binh might be a better option.

Surrounding Villages

Once you leave the busy streets of Hanoi you may be surprised to find the contrasting lifestyles of the people. Travel only 10-20km out of town and the city is replaced by the village. Here you will be surrounded by agriculture and usually for each village they have a specialty.

For Bat Trang, the area of expertise is ceramics and here you will find nothing else but ceramic shops. Once you reach the market you will find a mass of choice from giant vases to life size ceramic animals, tea sets, artworks and any kind of kitchenware. Bat Trang is approximately 10km southeast of Hanoi, over the Long Bien Bridge.

Van Phuc is everything silk so if you want to fill up the suitcase this is definitely an option. Many of the silk items sold in Hanoi were made in Van Phuc so if you are interested in finding the source of the many beautiful garments you see in town this short trip is worth it. Van Phuc is approximately 8km southwest of Hanoi.

Le Mat is a snake village and if you are game is a good place to try out snake cuisine. The snakes are prepared in a number of different ways and for the adventurous the village can be a once in a lifetime opportunity. Here you can watch the snake being killed by the handlers, drink its blood and for one person, usually the oldest male, swallow the heart. As you can imagine this is not for the faint hearted. Le Mat is approximately 8km northeast of Hanoi.

Things to consider
Many tour operators offer day trips including all villages. For Bat Trang and Le Mat there is the option of hiring a pushbike. The scenery over the Long Bien Bridge takes you away from everything Hanoi and cruising on two wheels can be fun. For Van Phuc the ride there is not so beautiful so if you are not on a tour grab a taxi or if you are up for the challenge hire a motorbike.

The above list is by no means exhaustive and some other alternatives are the Ho Chi Minh Trail Museum, Thay & Tay Phuong Pagoda and Ba Vi National Park.

Mui Ne, the beautiful white sand beaches of Vietnam
Photo by aidanxuyen

When you talk to someone who’s visited Mui Ne you often hear; “it was just so relaxing, with all those great little beach bungalows, stacks of different restaurants, beautiful dunes and white sand beaches.” However you could just as easily hear, “Mui Ne was unreal! We tried our hand at dune sledding, kite-surfing, windsurfing and even snuck in a round of golf. And we partied by bonfires every night on the beach. What a wicked weekend away!” Whichever Mui Ne you experience, you are bound to have a great time.

I liked the contrast between the young boys practising kite surf and the old fisherman in his traditional half-nut boat. They’re all pulling or hanging on ropes…
Photo by mtchm

Why not go to Mui Ne

Mui Ne is a little out of the way. With no easy airport access, if you don’t like long bus trips, you’d be better off flying into Nha Trang or heading down to Phu Quoc Island for a beach getaway. Also if you are looking for scuba diving or snorkelling then head elsewhere.

Mui Ne, like many other coastal tourist destinations in Vietnam, has undergone a building and development boom over the last few years. What was once a romantic and quiet local beach town is now almost entirely fronted by big hotels and bungalows and shows very little resemblance to the quiet fishing town that it used to be.

Why go to Mui Ne

Photo by art-ko

Mui Ne is gorgeous and really relaxing. If you make the effort to get there then you will be rewarded with postcard like palm fringed, white sand beaches and a lovely place to watch the world go by. Add to that, the easily accessible attractions around Mui Ne, you will see why the area has slowly turned into the port-of-call for most ex-pats out of Saigon and for backpackers from all over South East Asia seeking a beach break.

Best time to go to Mui Ne

As always on the south coast of Vietnam it is best to visit during the dry season which runs from October/November through to April/May. However, Mui Ne has a unique climate that means it sees very little rain in comparison to nearby Nha Trang, Hoi An and even Phan Thiet (just 30kms south) thus making it a great choice year round.

Where to stay in Mui Ne

Unlike many destinations in Vietnam it pays to make a reservation in this little town. There is an abundance of accommodation choices but due to Mui Ne’s popularity and proximity to Saigon it is a popular destination particularly over weekends and national holidays. With over 100 hotels to choose from there are as you would expect a wide variety of options from beautiful romantic resorts right down to little beach side bungalows. The Cham Villas (32 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, (062) 741-234) are my pick as one of the best priced luxury options in town. However, if you are looking for something a little lighter on the wallet then consider checking out Hiep Hoa Resort – Beachside Bungalows (80 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, (062) 847-262.)

Where to eat / dine in Mui Ne

Mui Ne, as you would expect, is all about seafood. There are some great restaurants that will cook up the catch of the day right as you watch, including; Guava (53 Nguyen Dinh Chieu) or if you are looking for a more romantic option then consider the restaurant inside the Sailing Club – Sandals (24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu.) An extensive menu and a beautiful setting make Sandals a great choice. A popular local option with plenty of fresh seafood to choose from is Lam Tong (92 Nguyen Dinh Chieu.)

Mui Ne fisherman
Photo by jonasphoto

Mui Ne and Binh Thuan province is also home to the famous dragon fruit. Aptly named, because of its appearance, it is a roadside favorite, and makes a great breakfast snack.

Nightlife in Mui Ne

Jibes, Pogo and Java are great options for passing the nigh away in town. Jibes is a popular kite-surfing hangout and often has bonfires down on the beach. However trends change, so have a walk along the beach and see where the night will take you!

My to do list in and around Mui Ne

• The red sand dunes – these sand dunes are at the northern end of town. The dunes are incredibly photogenic but because of their proximity to Phan Thiet and Mui Ne, they are incredibly popular as well. They are best visited very early in the morning or late at night to avoid the crowds and intense heat.

Following my friends steps
Photo by Lulugaia

• The white sand dunes – more picturesque but a bit more effort to reach than the Red Sand dunes, their grandeur are however, well worth the journey. Fantastic photo opportunities abound.

Dunes at the ocean:
Photo by alexlichtenberger

• Fairy Springs – Located about halfway along the main road at the back of Mui Ne beach. Head up river to the source of the spring and see how a small little river has carved out a huge niche in the local countryside.

• The early morning fish market – at the northern end of Mui Ne town, this is a must. Aim to get there sometime between 5.30-7am to catch the best of the action. You’ll see hundreds of locals furiously unloading, cleaning and trading all types of fish from boats anchored just off shore. A great 30 minute visit and easy to tie in with a trip to the nearby Red Sand dunes.

• The Po Shanu Cham tower – is located just east of the road linking Mui Ne and Phan Thiet. A vestige of the incredible culture of the Cham people who used to inhabit this area. It is beautifully located on a rise overlooking Phan Thiet city and the Phan Thiet river.

Stay away from

If you are going to hire a motorbike be sure to be cautious of all the tourist buses that fly in and out of the town. If you have never been on a bike before this is a great place to learn, but beware. Not long ago a new road was built behind the beach which has alleviated a lot of the traffic problems yet still many cars, buses and bikes continue to drive down the beach road at breakneck speeds!

Getting there

Mui Ne is about 30kms north of Phan Thiet. Just off highway 1a near the Phan Thiet turnoff is a side road to Muong Man which has north-south train connections. Ask about timetables in advance or prepare for a possible lengthy wait!

Most tourists reach Mui Ne on a bus, either a 4 hour journey north of Saigon or a 5 hour trip south of Nha Trang.

Sights

With only 24 hours in Hanoi the best place to start is the Old Quarter. Clearly the heart of Hanoi, here you will find a mass of activity and great opportunities to cater all tastes. The web of narrow streets and alleys is bustling with traffic and the concept of navigating your way around can be daunting at first. Travelling by foot is the best way to view the countless small shops, cafes, restaurants and street vendors. Have a quick break at a café and try the Vietnamese coffee: it’s strong and will give you a boost for the rest of the morning. As you stroll the streets you will definitely find that gift you are after be it clothes, souvenirs or a traditional artwork. There are many art galleries in the Old Quarter and they are definitely worth a look inside. If wandering the busy streets is not your cup of tea then you can hire a cyclo driver to peddle you around the Old Quarter. They usually offer rides for one hour and will only cost a few dollars. Don’t worry about finding them; they will find you.

Old Quarter
Photo by Jared Kelly

After a walk around the Old Quarter the next stop on the agenda should be Hoan Kiem Lake. A stroll around the lake is a relaxing contrast to the hustle and bustle of the Old Quarter streets. At the northern side of the lake you will find the Ngoc Son Temple, situated on an island over the little red bridge. It is a picturesque setting so have your cameras ready.

Hoan Kiem Lake
Photo by Andrew Hux

Express Old Quarter visit: Allow a minimum of 1 hour
Old Quarter, take your time and shop away: 2-3 hours

Museums/Temples

Hanoi is full of history and if your time here is short the best way to learn about its past is to explore one of the many museums/temples on offer.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Photo by danaspencer

If there is one place to visit it is the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, a grand and powerful structure displaying the embalmed body of Ho Chi Minh himself. It is the main attraction in Hanoi and the lines will curl around for hundreds of metres (although the waiting time shouldn’t exceed 20 minutes). The lines are in constant movement so you will be in and out within a minute. Security is on hand continually watching proceedings and they expect respect from those visiting. Wear long pants and cover your shoulders and don’t plan on taking any photos. Despite the constraints it is definitely worth the visit. The mausoleum is free and will only allow people in between 8am and around 10am so arrive early. It is a perfect next stop after visiting the Old Quarter. If you are travelling between October and December you will unfortunately have to leave this one off your list as the mausoleum is closed.

Nearby you will find the Ho Chi Minh Museum, Ho Chi Minh Stilt House and Presidential Palace as well as the One Pillar Pagoda.

Allow 2 hours

If you prefer the beauty of the Vietnamese architecture and are a bit of an art lover I would strongly suggest the combination of the Temple of Literature and the Fine Arts Museum. The temple is beautiful and the tranquil setting is a welcome change to life on the other side of the wall. As for the Fine Arts Museum you will find a mixture of sculptures, painting and ceramics from a range of periods. Usually one floor displays a collection of modern art which often impresses.

Temple of Literature: Quoc Tu Giam Street
Fine Arts Museum: 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street

Allow 1-2 hours

The Army Museum has a good display of weaponry with tanks, helicopters and downed aircraft from the war. The museum follows the history of the Vietnamese army concentrating on the French and American wars. There is a huge amount of information here and would be one of the better museums for the kids.

Allow 1 hour

Army Museum: Dien Bien Pho Street

If you’re interested in the Vietnamese minorities then the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology is a must. Here you will find a great collection from the numerous minority tribes that situate Vietnam. You will find the typical objects from the village and the materials used to make them. The museum explains clearly the difference in location and culture of the many minority groups. Outside the museum you will find a number of full scale replica houses, typical of those found in tribal areas. If your next stop is to any of the villages in Vietnam then you should put this museum on your list.

Allow 1.5 hours

Vietnam Museum of Ethnology: Nguyen Van Huyen Street

Nightlife/Entertainment

If your night is free go and check out the traditional Water Puppets show held daily at the Municipal Water Puppet Theatre. There are shows from late afternoon into the evening. The tickets are cheap and it will leave you with a truly authentic Vietnamese experience. Otherwise there is ample choice for bars and nightclubs; a vast supply throughout the Old Quarter. A famous hangout is the Bia Hoi Junction in the middle of the Old Quarter. Here you can sample the local microbrew beer on small plastic seats watching the world go by. This place is popular with the tourists and at 3,000 VND a glass it is easy to know why.

Water Puppets
Photo by richard vignola

The Puppeters
Photo by richard vignola

Water Puppets: 57B Dinh Tien Hoang Street
Bia Hoi Junction: Intersection of Ta Hien Street and Luong Ngoc Quyen Street

Eating

First and foremost you must try the traditional and famous Vietnamese dish pho. Pho is a noodle soup with either beef or chicken. Pho can be bought on the street for around 20,000 VND per bowl. You don’t have to go far to find a pho and the best way to try it is at one of the street stalls. If that doesn’t appeal to you or the tiny plastic chairs are not accommodating then most restaurants will serve the dish as well.

If you want to eat with the locals I would suggest trying the BBQ on the side of the street. Again you are sitting not far off the ground on small plastic chairs but the food is great and the experience not to be missed. There are many options but Ma May Street in the Old Quarter is a winner.

If you don’t want to go to the street food then let the street food come to you. Quan An Ngan is a large restaurant offering street food in a beautiful courtyard setting. The centralised menu means you can pick your dish from all the options and the waiters will order it from the relevant stall for you. It’s a three stars way to try what the locals eat everyday. This place is always busy with locals and travellers alike. You will find Quan An Ngan at 15 Phan Boi Chau Street.

Getting Around

By far the best way to get around the Old Quarter and surrounds is on foot. Hitting the streets at a slow pace gives you a great view of the culture and commerce around you. If walking the streets is a little too daunting or your legs need a rest you can grab a cyclo driver who are only to willing to show you their town.

Cyclo – Value for money!
Photo by Blue Barnacle

Taxis are in abundance and it is never too hard to find one in Hanoi. No city is without its shortcomings and for Hanoi it must be said that many of the taxi drivers will try to scam tourists on the fare. This is mainly done by rigged metres randomly jumping in price. I have had many friends tell me how they have been charged over 100,000 VND for a taxi fare that should cost around 40,000 VND. This can be frustrating and put a damper on your short time in Hanoi. My advice is to stick to the companies you can trust and for me they are Mai Linh Taxi (green emblem on the side of the car) and Hanoi Taxi. If you are pressed for time and need a taxi right away negotiate the price first and tell the driver not to use the metre. For short to medium trips the cost should be 20,000-60,000 VND. Any more than this would probably mean that the driver is being cheeky!

If you are feeling a bit more adventurous I suggest taking a xeom (motorbike taxi). They will take you anywhere you want to go starting from 20,000 VND. It is the next best way to driving the streets after driving a motorbike yourself (if you felt up for this, ask your hotel to organise you a motorbike rental for the day for approximately 100,000 VND) and it gives you the chance to experience the Hanoi traffic from within. The xeoms are amongst the fastest riders on the streets but I have not met anyone who hasn’t enjoyed themselves on one. As with the cyclos, the xe om are plentiful and drivers will offer their services on nearly every corner of the city.

Nha Trang Beach
Photo by nguyentrung

Nha Trang, meaning “white sand” in Vietnamese, is the perfect stopping point between Saigon and Hoi An if you are travelling overland but well worth the visit regardless of your route through Vietnam. Home of Dr. Alexandre Yersin, famous for his research on the bubonic plague, and in an unrelated agricultural sidenote, for introducing rubber trees into Indochina, Nha Trang has an interesting history. Known as ‘Kathura’ by the Cham people, Nha Trang was for many centuries part of the southern lands of the Champa kingdom, a mighty Hindu empire that stretched from an area near Hue all the way south to Phan Thiet. (The Champa Kingdom began to shrink around the 15th century under the weight of the ever expanding Vietnamese civilization. )

Nha Trang Cathedral: Built between 1928 and 1933 in the French Gothic style, complete with stained glass windows, Nha Trang Cathedral stands on a small hill overlooking the train station. It’s a surprisingly elegant building, given that it was constructed of simple cement blocks. A particularly colourful Vietnamese touch is the red neon outlining the crucifix, the pink back-lighting on the tabernacle and the blue neon arch and white neon halo over the statue of St Mary.
Photo by foraggio

Why not go

Over the years as Nha Trang’s reputation has grown as a beach and party town, package tourists have come a running! Many visitors fly into Nha Trang for a brief holiday where their only aim is to drink the nights away. As such it isn’t the quietest of towns. Sadly many of these tourists, and their money, have attracted some less salubrious characters so watch your step in Nha Trang. If you’re not up for the development that tourism has brought to the town, particularly along the shoreline, there are other more authentic and pristine beach alternatives along Vietnam’s incredible coastline, including Phu Quoc Island.

Fishing Boats
Photo by richard vignola

Why go

Nha Trang Beach
Photo by nguyentrung

Just south of Nha trang at Cam Ranh bay is Asia’s largest deepwater shelter natural harbour.

Fishing Village at Xom Bong Bridge
Photo by TTVo

Best time to go

Nha Trang is best some time between May and November, that is, outside of the rainy season as it’s hot and sunny. Regardless of when you visit, the beach is best enjoyed in the mornings before midday (the locals will be there from 5am to avoid the sun.) Around lunch the winds usually pick up and the water becomes less calm. During the rainy season the beach often looks, and is, dirty.

Where to stay

Hotel options vary enormously from private islands getaways to local backpacker $10 a night guesthouses. Only a few years ago Vinpearl island/hotel was completed with an enormous cable car linking the island to the mainland, it’s hard to miss!

Back on the mainland there’s hundreds of hotels to choose from to cater to all types of travelers. Many can be found on the main road (Tran Phu) fronting the beach. However if you step back a block and head down (Hung Vuong) there are many more (slightly cheaper) options.

If you are looking for a romantic getaway the Evason Ana Mandara hotel (Tran Phu street) is a must. Located right on the beach it’s an oasis of peace and tranquility, and a respite from the tourist masses.

Where to eat / dine

My favorite restaurant in Nha Trang is a smoky volcano bbq restaurant called Lac Canh (Nguyen Binh Khiem street). The fresh seafood is great but make sure you try the spring rolls – they are enormous!
The ambience and food at the sailing club (72-74 Tran Phu street) make it an excellent upmarket choice. Set right on the beach it’s a great place to go for sunset cocktails and dinner, but from about 8pm onwards it transforms into a beach party and nightclub.

If you wander down Biet Thu street (running away from the beach) there are some fantastic seafood restaurants and local bars. Some of the restaurants have fresh seafood on ice out the front which they will barbecue up for you with the sauce of your choice. Try Truc Linh 2 (corner of Biet Thu and Hung Vuong)

Nightlife

Again, there’s something to suit everyone in this party town. From beautiful sunset cocktails to dance clubs, local bars and even “bia hoi” options. There’s bound to be something in Nha Trang that’ll tickle your fancy.

The Sailing Club is a good option as is Guava bar which is just around the corner (17 Biet Thu.) However if you are after a different experience head on over to Crazy Kim’s bar (19 Biet Thu street), this place is unique. The premise of the bar is to help stop local children falling prey to the sex tourism industry. It’s a happening bar, plus it’s great that Crazy Kim (the manager/owner) is turning her profits into a way out for these children.

My to do list

- A boat trip out to the islands. A trip to Nha Trang would be incomplete without a day on the boat. Feast on a sumptuous seafood lunch, wander through a fishing village on one of the islands, ride in a conical (bamboo) basket and snorkel in crystal clear water … what more could you want in a day?!

Communal Mud Bath
Photo by kutu

Mineral Mud Treats Disease
Photo by laurasmith99

- The mud baths (Thap Ba hot spring center). This is a fantastic and really enjoyable way to spend an afternoon. Not as dirty as they sound, just north of town natural hot springs are mixed with some “therapeutic” mud to give you your very unique bathing experience. Great fun and an interesting way to spend an afternoon. Taxis will run you out there in about 15 mins but I’d highly recommend taking a cyclo ride out to the baths as it’s a fun way to see life on the streets.

Po Nagar Cham Towers
Photo by foraggio

- The Po Nagar (Cham tower) is a lovely well restored vestige of the Champa culture. Easily accessible from town Po Nagar rises above the Cai river offering gorgeous views over brightly colored fishing boats and Nha Trang in the background.

- Long Thanh’s black and white photo gallery (126 Hoang Van Thu street) Call first to make sure Long or his wife will be at his studio ([058] 824875) His photos are amazing, a little expensive but a great reminder of your trip to Vietnam. His gallery is definitely worth a visit if you are a photographer.

- Scuba diving. See rainbow divers (Biet Thu street)

Stay away from

The beach late at night. Sadly it is not the most savory of places, although it has been ‘cleaned up’ recently. There are often ‘ladies of the night’ about and they have been known to approach inebriated travelers and affectionately relieve them of wallets, cameras, passports etc. If you are heading out for a night on the town leave your valuables in your hotel safe and don’t walk along the beach alone at night, particularly after you’ve had a few drinks.

Getting there

There are bus connections to all major destinations out of Nha Trang including south to Mui Ne, inland to Dalat and north to Quy Nhon and Hoi An. The train is another option which runs north – south and Nha Trang’s new (but small) domestic airport located about 30 kms south of town has flights to most major destinations in Vietnam.

By Taxi

Tan Son Nhat is Vietnam’s largest international airport. There are 2 terminals – International flights departs from the newer international terminal whereas domestic flights (to Hanoi, Danang, Nha Trang, etc) are from domestic terminal (turn left). When you are going to the airport, be specific which terminal you want to go to. Otherwise to make your way to the other terminal, you have to walk with your luggage down the 600m pedestrian link

For arriving passengers, upon exiting the terminal, you will first see taxis from this company called Sasco. They costs slightly more than other taxi companies like Vinasun and Mai Linh, which can be found waiting for passengers some 500m further out into the parking lot. Whichever taxi you choose, make sure the driver uses the meter or you could simply purchase a “Taxi coupon” at one of the counters after the custom declaration & x-ray at international airport terminal, next to the Exchange counter.

As of May 2009, the airport has started using a Taxi queue system (usually at the left end of the terminal). Lookout for the taxi warden standing around the queue line who will radio the taxi for you. (Mai Linh wardens are in green shirt green tie, Vinasun warden are in dark green shirt maroon tie)

Watch out for taxi touts who also dress in white shirt uniforms and holding laminated “fixed prices” cards at $US25.00 per car to the city hotels. With bargaining, they might drop the price to $US15.00 but this is still more expensive than the metered taxis.

Budget Car Rental has recently become the first international car rental company in Vietnam. They offer English speaking drivers and new model vehicles, one trip to the city costs USD80 (fixed price)

By Bus

Airport Bus No.152 is the cheapest way into the city and comes air-conditioned. It will drop you off on the west side of the Pham Ngu Lao area or at the bus terminal on the south side of the Ben Thanh Market roundabout. Upon exiting the airport, turn right and walk towards the domestic airport. There in front of the airport across a small road you will find the bus waiting there. The price was recently increased to 3,000 VND.

Most private tour buses also drop passengers off on Pham Ngu Lao just west of De Tham, which is one stone throw away from the backpacker area.

Street Food: Here’s the stall where i had my first real pork roll in Vietnam. So great to have your favourite food in its native country. There was plenty of action around the stall.
Photo by micz

Budget Choices

There are food stalls set up all over the city and you can find a good selection of them near the Ben Thanh market. Besides the authentic taste, it is also the local charm of eating in these food stalls that adds to the experience. If you would like to their local fast food, the most popular will be the Pho 24 chain. Clean modern chain found everywhere in Ho Chi Minh City serving excellent beef noodle soup at affordable prices.

Along Pham Ngu Lao there are many budget Western selections, and exploring further into the side alleys is always a good idea as they tend to be of better standards.

• Dong Ba, 110A Nguyen Du, Dist 1. This is a shop that sells food from the region of Hue including Hue beef noodles and traditional banh beo rice cakes.
• Pao restaurant & caffe, 158 Bui Vien, Dist 1. This newly opened restaurant has very unique decorations with small instruments, traditional dress, hats, of the minority ethnic group in North of Vietnam. Local Vietnamese fares like Spring rolls, Hot pot, Pho with reasonable price. They have live Vietnamese Instrument Show on every Friday, Sunday.
• Doner Kebab, 198 Bui Vien st., District 1. Situated in the backpacker area, you could easily find this small stall selling Turkish Kebab for 15,000D each.
• Dream Cones, 16 Nguyen Thi Nghia St., Ben Thanh Ward, Dist. 1. Nothing more satisfying than a Gelato ice cream for less than 16,000 dong a scoop when the heat gets to you. Nice quirky and cool neon atmosphere.
• Pho 2000, 3 locations, one sharing space with I Love Burger, one right next to Ben Thanh Market, and the last toward the end of Le Thanh Ton Street. Moment of fame arrived in the form of a visit from the ex-president of USA Bill Clinton. Has excellent pho (including a seafood version), along with the usual Vietnamese rice dishes, including a superb vegetarian curry.
• BanhMiBistro, 76 Vo Thi Sau, District 1, across from Le Van Tam park. Great tasting fresh gourmet sandwiches, especially the famous Vietnamese Banh Mi sandwich. Bread is baked fresh in the store. There are 3 other outlets around town.
• Cafe Lam, 175 Bui Vien, District 1. Excellent restaurant in backpackers area. Huge portions with rock bottom prices. Value for money.

Mid-range Choices

• Black Cat 13 Phan Van Dat, D1, HCMC. Black Cat offers one of the best burgers around. Fresh and juicy beef patty. Try their jumbo burger at US$15 for an unforgettable burger experience.
• Barbecue Garden, 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia – Quan 1. HCMC Phone 8233340. Located 100 meters from Ben Thanh Market, behind the General Sciences Library. Specializing in BBQ recipes, the ambiance and music completes the total package of a delightful outing. The restaurant is an amazing place to have diner but also to have a drink (free wifi) during the day for a timeout.
• Chi Nghia, 53 Thu Khoa Huan, near Ben Thanh market. Small place specializing in Northern style Vietnamese cuisine. It’s run by the previous chef of Sofitel hotel, so her cooking and presentation is five star quality, but at affordable prices. Entrees are US$2-5. Very clean, and nicely decorated.
• Huong Dong, 68 Huynh Tinh Cua. A modest, open-air restaurant serving mostly southern country-style food. You might need a few beers though to muster the courage to try some of the more exotic dishes, including field mouse, whole frog, pigeon porridge, and coconut worm. A wide variety of other meats and seafood is available for the more conservative diners. Quirkly English translations of the long menu add to the attraction of the place.
• Lemongrass, 4 Nguyen Thiep Street. Near the Opera House.Vietnamese restaurant leaning on the touristy side. Most dishes are in US$4-6 range, although some seafood items are expensive; try the daily business lunch at US$3++.Opened another outlet on the 14th Floor of Palace Hotel Saigon, 10 minutes away from the first outlet. Same menu, same price.
• Quan An Ngon, 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street. A large and busy Vietnamese chain featuring regional specialties from around the country in the US$3-5 range. The place operates like independent food stalls in the premises. It’s set in an atmospheric old French villa across the street from the Reunification Palace.
• Quan Nuong, 29-31 Ton That Thiep. A delicious, reasonably-priced open-air barbecue restaurant on the roof above Fanny’s ice cream parlor and the Temple Club.Try the bacon wrapped salmon & the beef wrapped cheese skewers. They also serve a variety of mostly southern-style salads and noodle dishes. It’s very popular and often fills up by mid-evening.
• Sushi Bar, with two locations: corner of Le Thanh Ton and Ton Duc Thang in Q1, about six blocks northeast of the Opera House; and on the food-court floor of Zen Plaza on Nguyen Trai. Probably the best sushi around with an extensive range of sushi at value prices. Very popular, so be prepared to wait during the dining hours.
• Spice, 27c Le Quy Don in Q3. Authentic Thai food prepared by their two Thai chefs. In addition to a large selection of classics like Tom Yam Kung and Papaya Salad, they have interesting specials every week do ask the staff for details.
• The City Diner. Authentic 1950s style American Diner with 2 locations. 110 Ho Tung Mau, District 1, and 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, The Manor, Binh Thanh. Great Burgers, Salads, Sandwiches at reasonable prices. A fun atmosphere offering refillable coffee and free wi-fi make this restaurant a favorite with locals, expats and visitors alike. Ho tung Mau location open till late.

Splurge Choices

• Au Lac do Brazil, 238 Pasteur, between Dien Bien Phu and Vo Thi Sau. To remove all doubts that Saigon has everything, here is a Brazilian-style churrascaria (all-you-can-eat restaurant featuring barbecued meat), with live Latin music Tuesday to Saturday. They also have a new outlet in Sky Garden II, Phu My Hung, Dist 7. (Price $30+ per person)
• Co Ngu, on Pasteur just before Dien Bien Phu, Q1. Nice Vietnamese and Asian-fusion food in a Villa setting, with indoor and garden seating. Popular for business groups.
• La Habana, 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, two blocks northeast of the Hyatt and opera house. Authentic Spanish and Cuban-style food with a large tapas menu. Also one of the few places in Vietnam that makes really good cocktails.
• La Hosteria, on Le Thanh Ton a few blocks east of the Hilton. A gourmet Italian restaurant with excellent home-made pasta dishes and desserts.
• L’En tete, 1st floor, 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q.1 (at the junction with Calmette). Excellent French restaurant in an area not normally associated with fine dining. Great for a leisurely dining experience, good food with main courses ranging from 150000-450000 dong.
• Temple Club, 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q.1 (ice cream parlour on first floor) recreates a 1930’s ambiance with separate bar, restaurant, and lounge area. The food is average but most people come to soak up the atmosphere.
• ZanZBar Restaurant & Bar 41 Dong Du Street, Q1 (diagonally opposite Sheraton Hotel) has modern casual-upscale feel with extensive range of international & Vietnamese cuisine (plenty for vegetarians to choose from too). Huge wine-by-glass & cocktail menu. Food is world class and generous in size. Very popular place at any time of the day. As dusk falls, the columns lit up to create a fantastic ambience.

Where to Have a Coffee

Coffee is just an integral part of the Vietnamese’s way of life as the pho. The Cà phê is very popular among the Vietnamese and they drink it many times a day. Being the world’s second largest exporter of coffee after Brazil, it is simply a paradise for coffee lovers.

Typical Vietnamese Coffee
Photo by mengteck

The local style is strong and sweet; important words to remember are: sữa (sweetened condensed milk), đá (ice), and nóng (hot). Cà phê đá is strong, sweet iced coffee; and cà phê sữa đá is the same with condensed milk. The must try for all tourist is the Cà phê (sữa) nóng, freshly brewed in front of you, it’s served in a little metal cup with a sieve bottom and a second fliter base placed over a glass. This Brewer makes an adorable souvenir as well.

Espresso, cappuccino, and American-style filter coffee these days are also widely available in the tourist district, usually at twice the price of the local style.
• Gloria Jeans Cnr Dong Khoi and Nguyen Thiep (opposite the Sheraton). Popular Starbucks-style chain.
• Kem Café Popular local joint with excellent vibe. Pull up a plastic chair and sit on the pavement and a table will appear shortly. Most of the staff don’t speak English though so point to order.
• Cine Café 116 Nguyen Du, inside the Galaxy Cinema complex. Quiet ambiance with views of the park.
• Givral Café, Dong Khoi (opposite Continental Hotel). More in the French tradition, with fresh pastries, collared waiters and elaborate portions of ice cream. Well located, but over 20000 dong for the simplest cup.
• Highlands Coffee is an upscale, somewhat pricey chain serving Western-style as well as local-style brews in prime locations around the tourist district. They also serve food and pastries. Cappuccino costs above 30,000 dong, but the quality is disappointing.
• Cafe Napoly on Pham Ngoc Thach near the Turtle Pond. The decor is Roman-ruin-lite (they meant “Napoli”) but the menu is typical for an upscale Vietnamese cafe — coffee, fruit drinks, ice cream, and a simple food menu including eggs and rice dishes. Piped music is nice and prices are affordable. Houses three sections: an outdoor terrace in front, air-con section on the ground floor, and evening time lounge-bar on the upper floor. Next door is the louder, more trendy Cafe Nam Sao.
• Poppy Café , 217 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3. Modern lounge café where the specialty is fruit-topped natural frozen yogurt. The only café that serves this refreshing healthy treat. Creative fruit smoothies and light Vietnamese + Western fares also on menu. Free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, and English-speaking staff.
• Trung Nguyen, The Vietnamese version of Starbucks with branches all over the city. There are plenty of variations including the infamous weasel coffee (cà phê chồn), made from coffee beans collected from civet excrement. Two convenient outlets are east side of Nguyen Hue right before City Hall, and corner of Thu Khoa Huan and Ly Tu Trong.