I heard Sapa and the whole region was getting more and more crowded with tourists lately. Do you reckon Sapa and its surrounding villages are so filled with tourists that it reached an annoying level? (I know, everybody finds different things annoying…but still)

Answer

Sapa is indeed very popular with local and foreign tourists, and the local minority people are very much used to see tourists. I think it will depend on the time of year as well. I was there in early January, and the New Years crowd had just cleared out the day prior, so I found it a quiet time.

Sapa is still a very charming small mountain town that is well worth the visit if you have enough time.

However it is best too avoid during the summer and week-ends though.

We’ll be travelling from Hanoi to Sapa during the Tet holiday, is it advisable for us to book our train ticket in advance? We planned to buy our train ticket at the train station when we arrive as it will be cheaper. We were quoted 66usd for return ticket per person. Is this price reasonable? Also, we need to catch a flight back home and we are taking the night train from Lao Cai. Is the train schedule reliable?

Answer

Têt throws a lot of usual practices into the air – you can probably get your tickets on arrival, but unless the price is much higher you might want to play it safe and get them earlier.

The price might be reasonable or not – it depends on the train category, number of berths per cabin, etc.. For that price you should be getting “soft sleeper” and no more than 4 people per cabin.

The train station is at least 45+ minutes from Noi Bai airport, potentially more if you get stuck in morning traffic. Assuming you want to be at the airport at least 90 minutes before your international flight, if your train is scheduled to arrive in Hanoi at 5:30AM or later you risk missing your flight, if there’s just one delay at one of the train’s stops during the night.

Train timetable from Lao Cai to Ha Noi —(from Sep.2.2011)
(Train no—Dep.time/Arr.time)
SP2–Lao Cai 20:05pm/Ha Noi 04:35am
SP4–Lao Cai 20:45pm/Ha Noi 05:10am
SP8–Lao Cai 19:30pm/Ha Noi *04:05am(not 04:30am now)
SP6–Lao Cai 18:55pm/Ha Noi 03:40am
LC2–Lao Cai 21:20pm/Ha Noi 06:55am
LC4–Lao Cai 09:15am/Ha Noi 20:15pm

Train timetable from Ha Noi to Lao Cai —(from Sep.2.2011)
(Train no—Dep.time/Arr.time)
SP1–Ha Noi 21:10pm/Lao Cai 05:25am
SP3–Ha Noi 21:50pm/Lao Cai 06:15am
SP7–Ha Noi 20:35pm/Lao Cai 04:55am
SP5–Ha Noi 19:40pm/Lao Cai 04:22am
LC1–Ha Noi 22:00pm/Lao Cai 07:20am
LC3–Ha Noi 06:10am/Lao Cai 16:35pm

We were thinking of visiting Vietnam beginning of February. Just realized that they are also celebrating the new year. Will the shops and other places be open? Any advise? So is it a good time to visit Vietnam during Tet?

Answer

Since the whole country is off for about 1 week to celebrate the Tet at home with the family, I would avoid this period if possible. Services are minimal and overpriced and many shops and restaurants are closed.

Saigon was a city of unbridled capitalism – which is ironic for a nominally Communist country. It was impossible to walk for even a few metres and not be offered something to buy. There were women everywhere, carrying these huge crates on the bamboo poles over their shoulders, with every kind of fruit and drink for sale.
Even when taking a well deserved rest they were on the look out for customers.
Photo by amirjina

Delve into the streets to seek out some breakfast. A bowl of noodle soup is a quintessential Vietnamese dish, it will set you up for the day as well as being delicious, and depending where you are should only set you back around 25,000 or less. Around the city there are scatterings of chain pho shops, the best of which is pho 24, or you can follow in President Clinton’s footsteps in pho 2000, next to Ben Thanh market. Otherwise keep your eyes and nose peeled for any street vendors with ‘pho bo’ or ‘Canh’ written on their carts, although only voracious carnivores may delight in the unidentifiable meat included in some broths.

Then either walk, rickshaw, taxi, xe om or (for the brave and experienced) ride to the war remnants museum. Although many will find some of the exhibits grisly, the museum gives a thorough history of the events that have shaped Vietnam over the past 150 years. It is also written from a very Vietnamese viewpoint, one which we all too often don’t see portrayed in the west.

This area of District 1 is good for a couple of hours post museum strolling. There are numerous architectural splendors including the Opera house, Cathedral and The Intercontinental hotel all within walking distance of each other. The roads around here are also relatively easy going, and although still chock a block full of bikes, do give the pedestrian the advantage of traffic lights.

Having worked up an appetite amid the mayhem, retreat into one of the many excellent restaurants in this area. BBQ garden does a set lunch for 39,000 dong, which involves an assortment of tasty morsels you cook yourself on your own private table top grill. There’s a huge variety of restaurants here representing most cuisines and budgets, so just wander until you find something that takes your fancy, after all the best places you discover yourself.

After lunch, depending on your stamina, perhaps head back to the hotel for a mid afternoon rest and shower. Many people have a siesta in the middle of the day, if for no other reason than because it can get simply too hot to do anything. You may see workmen and vendors snoozing in makeshift hammocks or patches of shade all over the city. Also walking for hours while having the nerves to dodge motorbikes can zap the energy from even the most hardened souls.

When you’re fully rejuvenated head out and grab a coffee. Look out for small plastic tables and chairs on the street, and a kiosk nearby from which someone is selling soft drinks. If you are a fan of coffee partake in a ‘café da’, literally iced coffee, or if you like it really sweet and milky a ‘café sua da’. Vietnamese coffee is syrupy and sweet with a real kick, and with plenty of ice it is cold and refreshing and always goes down too fast. On the street a coffee is usually about 6 – 10,000, more in up market cafes. Sitting and watching street life unravel before your eyes is a fine way to spend half an hour (if the coffee lasts that long.)

After your caffeine intake continue to the Pham Ngu Lao / Ben Thanh market area park for a dusk stroll. Here you will find groups of all ages kicking feather ended plastic shoots to each other, and if you fancy joining in they can be purchased for about 10,000. There is a wonderful amount of frenetic energy around this time, with power walkers doing their rounds after work, young couples sitting together on parked motorbikes and dancing clubs making use of the gazebos as the sun goes down.

(out on the town)

Once the sun has set behind the manic roundabout at Ben Thanh, stay to see the streets light up with neon signs and circling headlights. By now, having wandered all day you may have worked up a healthy appetite. What better way to satisfy your belly than with a hearty, authentic French three course dinner. As French restaurants in HCMC go Ty Coz is a perfect balance of delicious authenticity and value for money. Run by two French gourmands who will guide you through the daily menu in French or English, you will be spoilt for choice. With prices starting at 195,000VND for three courses, including such delights as sole meuniere, tender steaks and muscles cooked in a variety of ways. To top it off free raspberry sorbet and rooftop dining with views of the cathedral should clinch the deal.

After having wined and dined to your hearts content, stroll around the cathedral down the road past the seated statue of Ho Chi Minh himself and around the opera house. On the far side, next to the “24” shop is a little drink shop. Buy a cold beer and you will be given a small plastic stool to perch upon. Although you may need a certain amount of flexibility to perch here for prolonged periods, it is a cheap and vibrant place to stop for a drink. Groups of Vietnamese students shouting the ubiquitous drinking phrase (mot, hai, ba, yo! – 1,2,3, go!) and tourists mixed together, watch the crowds start to gather around the fountain at Q bar, but without paying such hefty prices. Beers are a mere 10,000 and if you’re in the mood for a late night, a bottle of vodka and a few cold cans of mixers will only set you back 100,000.

Once you are suitably inebriated, just a stones throw away from here are Vasco’s and Apocalypse Now. Vasco’s is the venue of the moment for a host of different DJ nights and usually a surefire bet for a cool crowd and good music. Apocalypse now is populated more by foreigners than Vietnamese but has lots more space and generally more people dancing. If you’re not in the mood for dancing, head back to Pham Ngu Lao where you’ll find a high density of bars to satisfy any whim. The Asian Kitchen Hideaway (upstairs) is an excellent place to meet other travelers and expat English teachers (there are a lot of them!) They have cheap nightly specials and drinking challenges for the strong-stomached, plus you can select your own choice of songs from the proprietor’s vast collection. Cheaper still but always packed is the bia hoi on Bui Vien. More of a rarity in HCMC than in Hanoi, here you pay just 12,000 for a litre of home-brewed beer, your wallet can remain healthy but you may pay for it the next day. For those who are partial to a game of pool there’s the upstairs, rather sedate Hoa Mai, and a few doors down the rowdier, cave like T&R tavern.

Most bars around this area close around 3am , but for those night owls who are still after “one for the road” or more the strip of bars which starts next to the Crazy Buffalo and Go2 are open 24 hours and glasses of dubious “rum/vodka” and coke can be had for a dollar. Of course the Crazy Buffalo and Go2 are also open all night but they can be a little tacky and sleazy as well as wallet crunching. If you fancy an outing after dinner which doesn’t involve drinking there are lots of cinemas that show OV films, Diamond Plaza and Galaxy are probably the best. The live music scene in HCMC is rather lacking, but there are occasional concerts at the opera house and in the Nguyen Du arena. The best way to find out exactly what concerts or gigs are on is to pick up a copy of “the word”, which has nightlife listings. These are free and can be found in lots of restaurants and bars around town.

After such a long day, there will be many chariots awaiting to drive you safely home. Late at night it’s best to get in a MaiLinh or Vinasun taxi, as other less reputable companies often over charge. Overall HCMC is a Frenetic and Vibrant place, and has something to offer anyone willing to delve under it’s chaotic exterior. In fact many people find this part of the appeal, for the more you observe, the more you learn there is order to the chaos (most of the time.)

Ho Tay Lake Water Park

Ho Tay Lake Water Park

In summer the Ho Tay Lake Water Park is a great place to take the kids. The heat of Hanoi can be draining so it is comforting to know there is a place to relax, cool off and keep the kids happy. The park has an assortment of rides, pools, slides and even water games. It is a big attraction for the locals so if you are all about some fun in the sun then the Water Park is the place to be. Entry is from 30,000-50,000 VND depending on your height. There are snack foods available so it’s easy to make a day out of it.

Things to consider
It is fair to say the conditions are perhaps not up to western standards. The toilets are not the best and even though there are guards on watch I would keep an extra eye on the kids when they are in the water, especially if they are not strong swimmers.

Where
The Water Park sits on the cities West Lake and is about a 15 minute taxi ride from the centre of town.

When
The Park is only open in the hotter months from April to November with operating hours of 9am to 9pm.

Thu Le Park & Hanoi Zoo

The Hanoi Zoo, a small zoo, sits within the boundaries of the vast Thu Le Park. The zoo has a range of monkeys, big cats, birds and reptiles which will keep the kids interested. The animal cages are dotted throughout the park so you can wander around looking at different animals while enjoying the park at the same time.

The surrounding park is a great escape from the busy and polluted streets of Hanoi and you will feel you can breathe easier there. The kids can enjoy the pedal boats around the lake as well as the nearby fun park.

Admission is very cheap at 2,000 VND.

Things to consider
The cages are somewhat smaller than you might be used to, however the animals situations aren’t terrible as you can find in other Asian zoos. The rides in the fun park are quite run down in appearance but they generally look safe.

Where
The Hanoi Zoo & Thu Le Park is around 5km west of the city centre on Bach Thu Le and will take around 10 minutes in a taxi.

When
The Park and Zoo are open daily from before first light to around 10pm at night.

Megastar Complex

The Hanoi cinema is an extremely modern setup showing the latest films in the comfort we are used to back home. This is a great place to take the kids, giving them a break from the streets outside. The complex shows all the films in English with Vietnamese subtitles. There is the option of 2D and 3D viewing for some films and also plenty of drinks and snacks to choose from.

Prices are between 40,000-80,000 VND and for the quality you receive the cost is more than reasonable. Check the website for discount days and times if you want to save a few dollars. On the 5th floor of the complex is a massive games arcade which will leave the kids drooling. Before or after the film you can shop and eat in any of the up market shops found throughout the four floors of Vincom City Towers.

Things to consider
It is hard to find a problem here and my only issue is that the Vietnamese have no qualms in having a detailed conversation in the middle of the movie. I wouldn’t let this discourage you, as often there are plenty of free seats, and if they do start chatting away you can easily move to another area of the cinema.

Where
You can find the cinema at 191 Ba Trieu Street on the 4th floor of the Vincom City Towers, only a 5 minute taxi ride heading south from the city centre.

When
For viewing times I suggest you check out the Megastar website http://www.megastarmedia.net/index.aspx?visLang=2 which has an English translation option.

Hanoi Star Bowl

The Hanoi Star Bowl is the cities answer to ten pin bowling and can make for a fun few hours. There are plenty of lanes available as well as a range of snacks and drinks. Downstairs there are a bunch of video games the kids can play if they have had enough of the bowling. The price per game is from 15,000-25,000 VND.

Things to consider
The balls are not in great condition and it is sometimes hard to find the lighter weights which can be a problem for the little ones.

Where
The Hanoi Star Bowl is at 2B Pham Ngoc Trach Street in Dong Da District about 15 minutes by taxi, south west of the city centre.

When
The bowling opens from 10am everyday and closes late at night.

Water Puppet Theatre

If you are looking for something a little more authentic then you can’t go past the water puppet show. You won’t find this form of theatrical art anywhere else in the world so I suggest you add this to the list of musts while in Hanoi.

Tickets cost from 20,000-60,000 VND; a little more if you want to take in a camera.

Things to consider
The shows are very popular and can book out so save disappointment and book in advance.

Where
The best Water Puppet show in town is at 57B Ding Tien Hoang Street on the North-east side of Hoan Kiem Lake. For anyone staying in the Old Quarter you can make your way on foot.

When
Performances take place every day of the week. Starting times are 15:30 PM – 17:00 PM – 18:30 PM – 20:00 PM – 21:15 PM. For more information have a look at their website which has an English translation http://www.thanglongwaterpuppet.org/homepage.asp

Best of the Rest

Hanoi Central Circus: The circus runs Tuesday to Sunday (8-10pm) in a large tent on the northern side of Lenin Park. On Sunday morning at 9am there is a special performance for kids. It is around 40,000 VND per person.

Swan Pedal Boats: As well as Thu Le Park the swan pedal boats can also be found on the southern side of Ho Tay Lake and Truc Bach Lake. Prices are 30,000 VND for 30 minutes and 60,000 VND for one hour.

Fanny Ice Cream: For most kids there isn’t a better attraction than some tasty ice cream. Fanny’s ice cream is located on Le Thai To Street on the south-west side of Hoan Kiem Lake. Prices start from around 15,000 with an abundance of choice available. The first Friday of the month has an all you can eat buffet for 75,000 VND per person.

Dalat, meaning the ‘river of the Lat people’, is a romantic getaway for Vietnamese. Upon arrival you will undoubtedly see tandem bicycles, young university students and cozy couples all blending into the scenery to help give this town a lovely air of old-school romance. However there’s plenty of action (of an entirely savoury variety) just outside of the city too! Countless wonderful excursions to fill your days including visits to traditional local minority villages, cycling through nearby pine forests and abseiling down pristine waterfalls. Dalat makes for a great two or three day visit and will help give you a refreshing understanding of the Vietnamese people and landscape.

Dalat was, until only 150 years ago, a land of hill tribes and wild pristine forests filled with tigers, elephants and rhinoceros. This all changed in the early part of the 20th Century when the French established a hill station here as a retreat for those who worked in the sweltering heat of Saigon. The town also served to help oversee and control the tea and coffee plantations nearby. The last Nguyen Emperor, Bao Dai, in the 1920’s and 30’s, built palaces here so he could relax and hunt – a golf course was even built – and soon Dalat developed into the welcoming town it is today.

Dalat Central Market, Dalat, Vietnam: I took this shot from the upstairs, prepared food level. I spent hours at this market — the produce is shown here, and there was entire other room that had meat products, rice, and eggs. Fantastic.
Photo by jen maiser

Why not go to Dalat

Dalat isn’t famous for a vibrant nightlife or white sand beaches and warm weather. However it is a great visit for a different perspective on life in Vietnam. If you are only in the country for only 10-14 days and you want to cover Vietnam’s most popular destinations and highlights then you may find yourself hard pressed to find enough time to squeeze it in as a 2 or 3 day side trip.

Why go to Dalat

Dalat is all about taking a break from the crazy, helter-skelter pace which has been chasing you through most of the major centers in Vietnam. If you feel like all you’ve seen in Vietnam is 100,000 motorbikes, busy streets and relentless construction in a drive to modernize, you may need a time-out from all of that. Dalat could be just for you.
Dalat is such a change that many tourists who have flown in from Saigon or Hanoi have had to be reminded that they are not, in fact, in an entirely different country! The landscape is different, as are the people, the cuisine, the pace of life … even the air is fresh! Beyond all of this Dalat is a great base for checking out many of the nearby attractions including waterfalls, national parks, minority villages and for the historians out there the legacy of the French influence in Indochina can be seen through the old and kitsch French architecture.

Best time to go to Dalat

Without a doubt the best time of year to visit Dalat is during the annual flower festival which usually falls in December or early January. The 2010 festival runs from January 1st – 4th. Dalat is a wonderful place to visit most of the year, however during the local rainy season (April to November) you may find Dalat more dreary than otherwise. Having said that even in the wet season Dalat is still enjoyable in the mornings. Typically at the end of summer (around March), Dalat is dry, not as green as usual, which can spoil the impression of the town for some visitors.

Where to stay in Dalat

Hotels abound in Dalat, but if you are looking for a cheap and cheerful local option with a great central location then head to Viet Phong (30 Khu Hoa Binh) which is just near the top of the stairs, above the central market in town. However for something more luxurious and beautiful spoil yourself with a reservation at the Ana Mandara Sixsenses Hideaway (Duong Le Lai.) The secluded location and private restored villas from the 1920s and 1930s make this an amazing place to settle in for a few nights if you can afford the price tag.

Where to eat / dine in Dalat

A great local eatery can be found at Ngoc Duy (14b Hunh Thuc Khang Street – not far from Crazy house.) Their vegetable soup, venison and banana flambé are to die for! Another great option is the Café de la poste (Tran Phu) which is opposite the Novotel hotel in town, they do a great breakfast.

Nightlife in Dalat

Saigon nites (Hai Ba Trung street) is probably your best option in town. However for a cozy and quiet setting try Larry’s bar underneath the Sofitel hotel. This quiet little bar runs a great happy hour and is a fun place to have a few drinks and imagine what life in Dalat would’ve been like back in the middle part of the 20th Century.

My to do list in and around Dalat

• The Dalat market is my favorite market in all of Vietnam. The produce available is incredibly diverse and the candy section as you first walk in can keep you busy for hours with taste testing (eagerly encouraged by the sellers!) Make sure you try one of the local specialties, artichoke tea.
• The Dalat cable car (opened in 2003) is a must as it carries you soundlessly over forests, vegetable gardens and right down to a beautiful pagoda that lies above the Quang Trung reservoir. The views from the cable car station back over town are great.
• Bao Dai’s summer palace (which is now a museum) would’ve been a fun place to call home. Completed in the 1930s it adhered to the popular trends of the time and is now very kitsch in it’s art-deco design.
• A morning walk around the 7km Xuan Huong lake in the middle of town is a wonderful way to take in the sites of Dalat.
• A visit to Prenn waterfall is worthwhile, especially for the kids, who will definitely enjoy the luge/bobsled down to the base of the falls.

Stay away from

Avoid walking through the back of the local market unless you are interested in seeing live animals which are soon to become meals. Also be wary of hiring a bicycle and cycling around the city unless you have a good map and are prepared to tackle the hills. Be aware that the streets in Dalat make it a very easy place to get lost, so take a business card from you hotel whenever you head out. At night, keep an eye out for the local Eiffel tower (a telecommunications tower), the central lake or the market to keep you bearings.

Getting there

There are daily flights to both Hanoi and Saigon. Bus connections are also available to Saigon, (6-9 hours), Nha Trang (4-5 hours), Mui Ne (6-7 hours) and Hoi An (10-12 hours.) There is a local train but this only runs a short distance to the Linh Phuoc pagoda and returns along the same track. If you are interested in the train trip keep in mind that the train only runs when there are enough passengers so inquire at your hotel, or at any of the tour agencies in town, for possible departures.

Street food at Hanoi: Food stalls in the small alley ways of the Old Town of Hanoi
Photo by kirksiang

From the early hours of the morning ladies begin preparing their specialty dishes on their allotted street corners waiting for the sun to rise and the customers to start flowing… and flow they do: rich and poor, young and old… street food is for everyone and its principle fits perfectly into the pace of the city.

Approaching the small plastic tables and chairs filled with buoyant locals can be a daunting prospect especially as the menu, usually written on a large board at the front of the restaurant, is only in Vietnamese. The locals will usually speak little to no English as well which begs the question “What are they going to bring me”? Fear not, as with a small bit of preparation and a general understanding of the street food in Hanoi you will soon be ordering and eating like a local.

Despite the variety of street food available most places will serve only one or two dishes. If the person sitting next to you is eating something that looks appealing, just point at their meal and the job is done. Nonetheless, I still think that knowing the words of the dishes you want to try is invaluable while quite easy to learn.

Below is a list of some of the popular street foods offered in Hanoi. You may find that once you start your street food adventure you will not want to stop and will happily skip on the western seats and air conditioned rooms for quick and tasty meals served on the sides of busy roads.

Phở

Photo by shok

Phở bò – beef noodle soup (Phở bò tái: half cooked beef, Phở bò chin: well done beef).
Phở gà – chicken noodle soup

Bún

Photo by nicole1980

Regarding bún dishes, you will be spoilt for choice in Hanoi and below are only some of the varieties you can choose from:

Bún chả – grilled pork noodle
Bún bò – beef noodle
Bún riêu – crab noodle
Bún ốc – snail noodle
Bún đậu – tofu noodle

Xôi

Photo by herethere

Xôi gà – sticky rice with chicken

Bánh cuốn

Photo by stylelab

Lẩu

Photo by superciliousness

BBQ

Photo by fireforge_photo

Bread and pâté

Photo by martywindle

Chè

Photo by jenmaiser

Costs

Street food as a whole is extremely inexpensive. Most dishes will not cost more than a few dollars. The hotpot and BBQ can cost a little more however with a few friends you won’t be paying much at all.

Where to go

Half the fun is trying any random place you come across and with stalls on virtually every street you will not have to look far to find them. If you don’t want to take the risk and are looking for some proven performers have a look at the below two blogs as they have some great suggestions:

Savour Asia
Sticky Rice

How you decide to eat in Hanoi can shape your memories of the place so my suggestion is ignore any inhibitions you might have and embrace the street food experience. You won’t regret it.

The Buffalo Festival of Do Son
Photo by Joshua Owen

Seconds stretched into minutes. It was time for action. Busting with anticipation I took it upon myself to speed up proceedings. Hoping to spur the animals into action, I called on my very best Vietnamese and boomed a mighty, “cố lên!” (‘rise up’ or ‘give it your best shot.’) In an instant all heads turned. My face burned with the eyes of countless, hot and frustrated Vietnamese. The tension was palpable.

Look at the crowd!
Photo by Joshua Owen

I frantically racked my brains to work out what social faux pas I had committed, or was it the mispronunciation of my basic Vietnamese? Then as if so often the case with these friendly and playful people a sea of smiles signaled a call to arms and in unison the 100 or so people around me echoed my sentiments with a far mightier shout of “cố lên!”. The suspense suddenly broken the bulls charged toward each other and locked horns in their now, all too familiar, embrace.

I had known of this festival but had never had the opportunity so when a Vietnamese friend asked if I was interested I lept at the opportunity. I’m not sure what I expected, certainly not a bloodbath, perhaps something similar to a Spanish bullfight but with a Vietnamese flavor to it. In the end nothing I could have imagined would have prepared me for the day ahead.

We left Hanoi around 3am on the Sunday morning hoping to arrive well before the first bout and secure some decent seats. How wrong we were! Arriving well before 8am the stadium was already overflowing with spectators and many more were jostling and pushing impatiently outside hoping to sneak in. Gates were closed, but the more adventurous and nimble outsiders scaled walls, trees, buildings and even TV trucks to get inside. We waited outside one of the gates sweating in the sun and mud and able to hear the cheers but not see a thing until just after the second bout of the day when we were able to squeeze our way in.

The Stadium
Photo by Joshua Owen

The atmosphere was electric. Thousands of people ringed the soccer stadium not dissuaded by the searing sun and warm temperatures. We couldn’t find any spare room in the stands but were able to stand a few rows back right on the fence at one end of the pitch to catch glimpses of the action. It was a fantastic experience.

The buffalo fighting festival is held in Do Son, a small beach town about 20kms south east of Haiphong city. Do Son is a very popular seaside retreat for Hanoians as it is only a 2½ hour drive from the city. It has one of the only casinos in the country and is famous for its fresh and local seafood, relaxed atmosphere, gambling, numerous ‘karaoke’ and ‘massage’ establishments and of course the annual buffalo fighting festival.

Haiphong is also a popular destination and is the third largest city in Vietnam, after Saigon and the capital, Hanoi. Haiphong has always been an important port city in Northern Vietnam linking trade and commerce to the capital. It is also a gateway to Cat Ba Island and the southern section of Ha Long Bay National Park.

The annual buffalo festival (called “lễ hội chọi trâu” in Vietnamese) is held on the 10th day of the 8th lunar month, which usually falls in September or October of each year. One of the more famous traditional festivals in Vietnam, the buffalo festival of Do Son is held to honor the local Water God and also to represent the fighting spirit of the local people. The bulls that are selected to fight are usually aged between 3-5 years and have had to prove their mettle in smaller regional competitions in order to qualify for the main event.

The 32 qualifiers then face off over 5 knock-out or elimination bouts to determine the overall champion. The festival starts very early in the morning at about 7.30am with each bull being led out by a procession of 12 handlers or trainers who wear bright red and yellow silk costumes and wave colored flags. Each of the bulls have a number painted on their side to allow pundits to put on wagers and the numbers also help the crowd distinguish between the two. Even though gambling is technically illegal in Vietnam, plenty of side bets can be found in and around the stadium which garner the interests of many of the locals. The competition is televised nationally with millions tuning in to watch the festival.

Locked in Battle
Photo by Joshua Owen

On the day, some of the bouts will last only a few minutes, with one bull quickly gaining the upper hand and forcing the other bull to turn and flee. If one of the bulls no longer chooses to fight and runs from it’s opponent then it is out of the tournament and sent straight to a tent just outside the stadium to be slaughtered. In fact eventually all 32 buffaloes are turned into table treats! Some of the fights though are long and drawn out and can take up to an hour to determine a winner with bulls often standing just a few feet apart and sizing up their opponent, heightening the suspense and making the win all the more gratifying!

The bulls fight by charging head first into each other and locking horns. They then try and gain the upper hand by forcefully and sometimes violently pushing their opponent backwards. If this is not enough to send their competitor running then the buffaloes often begin torquing their necks, using their interlocked horns as leverage, in an attempt to twist the other buffalo off balance. When a bull backs down and pulls out of the contest it then quickly retreats from the more dominant male. This is the end of the battle but sometimes just the start of the action for the spectators.

Rodeo clowns trying to stop the fight
Photo by Joshua Owen

Sometimes the dominant bull will chase the loser around the stadium in hope of further asserting its supremacy. At this, one (or many) of the very colorful “rodeo clowns” run into the ring to intervene and stop the fight, grinning and taunting as they do, they wave flags, and run in between the surprisingly fast animals. At times, the rodeo clowns will, in sheer desperation, resort to holding on to tails and horns and using absolutely any and all means necessary to separate the two bulls. The winner is led away and prepared for the next bout while the loser is whisked away to be prepared for sale.

Buffalo meat for sale
Photo by Joshua Owen

The overall winner is crowned with a handsome reward of around 40 million VND (over $2000 USD.) Purchasing just a few hundred grams of your favorite bull is an easy task. Tables are lined up outside the stadium with numbers indicating exactly which bull you can buy. Many spectators grab some meat on the way out to take home and share with the family. Others trundle off to nearby seafood restaurants where a plate of buffalo is the specialty of the day and they charge an arm and a leg for it too!

Halong Bay

Halong Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage site, situated in the Golf of Tonkin, is without a doubt one of the main attractions in Vietnam. The sheer beauty of the thousands of limestone islands and islets makes this a scenic wonderland.

Tour operators offer day trips from Hanoi which includes all transfers to Halong Bay, access to the boat and a tasty seafood lunch. Depending on your tour you will get the option of spending your time kayaking or seeing the caves or possibly stopping at a small beach.

The Kangaroo café www.kangaroocafe.com offers some great small group options which don’t break the bank. You also have the choice to book a private tour for those romantics out there. For two people the all inclusive cost is around the US $120 mark. Each person after that drops around US $15 so if you have extras or are happy to join a group the price is very reasonable.

Things to consider
Halong Bay is a beautiful part of the country and you could find the return trip a bit on the lengthy side if done on the same day, so if you have the time you may consider a two day one night option. If however you only have the day, then you should definitely fit this trip into your plans.

Halong Bay
Photo by Andrew Hux

Competition for your money is rife amongst the tour operators and the end result is cheaper prices. The problem is that many operators can’t provide the service they advertise and do not offer any follow up service, often because they act purely as ticket sellers for other companies. I suggest paying a bit more and staying away from the budget options.

For those who don’t care about the service and just the end result will be plagued with choice in Hanoi’s Old Quarter as every couple of shops offer day trip tours to Halong Bay. Hunt around and you won’t pay much at all.

Buffalo tours www.buffalotours.com is another good choice which offer good trips to Halong Bay.

Jewel of the Delta

Travelling along the Red River on a private boat is definitely a good way to see the countryside of Northern Vietnam. After cruising down the river in the morning you make a stop and transfer onto bicycles giving you the chance to ride through the surrounding villages. The twisting roads will take you to some of the better known handicraft villages. Once back on board you are treated to a five course meal before stopping at Bat Trang Ceramic village, on your way back upriver.

Things to consider
The tour definitely allows a hassle free adventure along the Red River where everything is organised. Buffalo Tours sells this tour for around US $80 per person as a private option. If discovering the countryside is your main aim and you want a bit of adventure then I would recommend hiring a pushbike and making the trip yourself. Hiring a bike is no more than a few dollars and is a great way to escape the tourist path and feel a part of Vietnamese society. A trip from Hanoi to the ceramics village of Bat Trang is approximately 10km southeast from the centre, over Long Bien Bridge.

Ninh Binh

Travel a few hours south east of Hanoi and you will reach Ninh Binh. From there a 9 kilometre drive will take you to some of the most striking scenery in Northern Vietnam: Tam Coc. A stunning 2 hours boat ride takes you through the magical limestone landscapes often referred to as the Halong Bay on land. Also not far from Ninh Binh is Hoa Lu, the ancient capital of Vietnam. Day trips to this region can also include stops at the Phat Diem cathedral and the Bich Dong pagoda.

Tam Coc Caves
Photo by TTVo

Things to consider
As with Halong Bay, decide what you want out of the experience and book a tour accordingly. There are private and group tours available for US $65 for which the service levels are high. You can pay half that and hope for the best.

Perfume Pagoda

Around 70km from Hanoi among the limestone rocks you will find a truly striking and spiritual setting. Here you will have the chance to view many of the pagodas and shrines of the area. The Perfume Pagoda is found within a cave built into the cliffs and you can only access by boat (90 minutes) followed by a steep mountain walk. There is now a cable car taking you to the top but if you can handle the walk it is worth it. The experience of getting to the pagoda is one in itself with the amazing landscape a wonder to enjoy.

Perfume Pagoda
Photo by alejandroglobal

Things to consider
The pagoda is not only a big tourist attraction but is extremely popular for the locals as well. For this the area can get very busy so check before booking a trip if the Buddhist pilgrims are there in numbers. This can make for an interesting experience but if you prefer some peace and quite out of Hanoi Ninh Binh might be a better option.

Surrounding Villages

Once you leave the busy streets of Hanoi you may be surprised to find the contrasting lifestyles of the people. Travel only 10-20km out of town and the city is replaced by the village. Here you will be surrounded by agriculture and usually for each village they have a specialty.

For Bat Trang, the area of expertise is ceramics and here you will find nothing else but ceramic shops. Once you reach the market you will find a mass of choice from giant vases to life size ceramic animals, tea sets, artworks and any kind of kitchenware. Bat Trang is approximately 10km southeast of Hanoi, over the Long Bien Bridge.

Van Phuc is everything silk so if you want to fill up the suitcase this is definitely an option. Many of the silk items sold in Hanoi were made in Van Phuc so if you are interested in finding the source of the many beautiful garments you see in town this short trip is worth it. Van Phuc is approximately 8km southwest of Hanoi.

Le Mat is a snake village and if you are game is a good place to try out snake cuisine. The snakes are prepared in a number of different ways and for the adventurous the village can be a once in a lifetime opportunity. Here you can watch the snake being killed by the handlers, drink its blood and for one person, usually the oldest male, swallow the heart. As you can imagine this is not for the faint hearted. Le Mat is approximately 8km northeast of Hanoi.

Things to consider
Many tour operators offer day trips including all villages. For Bat Trang and Le Mat there is the option of hiring a pushbike. The scenery over the Long Bien Bridge takes you away from everything Hanoi and cruising on two wheels can be fun. For Van Phuc the ride there is not so beautiful so if you are not on a tour grab a taxi or if you are up for the challenge hire a motorbike.

The above list is by no means exhaustive and some other alternatives are the Ho Chi Minh Trail Museum, Thay & Tay Phuong Pagoda and Ba Vi National Park.

Mui Ne, the beautiful white sand beaches of Vietnam
Photo by aidanxuyen

When you talk to someone who’s visited Mui Ne you often hear; “it was just so relaxing, with all those great little beach bungalows, stacks of different restaurants, beautiful dunes and white sand beaches.” However you could just as easily hear, “Mui Ne was unreal! We tried our hand at dune sledding, kite-surfing, windsurfing and even snuck in a round of golf. And we partied by bonfires every night on the beach. What a wicked weekend away!” Whichever Mui Ne you experience, you are bound to have a great time.

I liked the contrast between the young boys practising kite surf and the old fisherman in his traditional half-nut boat. They’re all pulling or hanging on ropes…
Photo by mtchm

Why not go to Mui Ne

Mui Ne is a little out of the way. With no easy airport access, if you don’t like long bus trips, you’d be better off flying into Nha Trang or heading down to Phu Quoc Island for a beach getaway. Also if you are looking for scuba diving or snorkelling then head elsewhere.

Mui Ne, like many other coastal tourist destinations in Vietnam, has undergone a building and development boom over the last few years. What was once a romantic and quiet local beach town is now almost entirely fronted by big hotels and bungalows and shows very little resemblance to the quiet fishing town that it used to be.

Why go to Mui Ne

Photo by art-ko

Mui Ne is gorgeous and really relaxing. If you make the effort to get there then you will be rewarded with postcard like palm fringed, white sand beaches and a lovely place to watch the world go by. Add to that, the easily accessible attractions around Mui Ne, you will see why the area has slowly turned into the port-of-call for most ex-pats out of Saigon and for backpackers from all over South East Asia seeking a beach break.

Best time to go to Mui Ne

As always on the south coast of Vietnam it is best to visit during the dry season which runs from October/November through to April/May. However, Mui Ne has a unique climate that means it sees very little rain in comparison to nearby Nha Trang, Hoi An and even Phan Thiet (just 30kms south) thus making it a great choice year round.

Where to stay in Mui Ne

Unlike many destinations in Vietnam it pays to make a reservation in this little town. There is an abundance of accommodation choices but due to Mui Ne’s popularity and proximity to Saigon it is a popular destination particularly over weekends and national holidays. With over 100 hotels to choose from there are as you would expect a wide variety of options from beautiful romantic resorts right down to little beach side bungalows. The Cham Villas (32 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, (062) 741-234) are my pick as one of the best priced luxury options in town. However, if you are looking for something a little lighter on the wallet then consider checking out Hiep Hoa Resort – Beachside Bungalows (80 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, (062) 847-262.)

Where to eat / dine in Mui Ne

Mui Ne, as you would expect, is all about seafood. There are some great restaurants that will cook up the catch of the day right as you watch, including; Guava (53 Nguyen Dinh Chieu) or if you are looking for a more romantic option then consider the restaurant inside the Sailing Club – Sandals (24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu.) An extensive menu and a beautiful setting make Sandals a great choice. A popular local option with plenty of fresh seafood to choose from is Lam Tong (92 Nguyen Dinh Chieu.)

Mui Ne fisherman
Photo by jonasphoto

Mui Ne and Binh Thuan province is also home to the famous dragon fruit. Aptly named, because of its appearance, it is a roadside favorite, and makes a great breakfast snack.

Nightlife in Mui Ne

Jibes, Pogo and Java are great options for passing the nigh away in town. Jibes is a popular kite-surfing hangout and often has bonfires down on the beach. However trends change, so have a walk along the beach and see where the night will take you!

My to do list in and around Mui Ne

• The red sand dunes – these sand dunes are at the northern end of town. The dunes are incredibly photogenic but because of their proximity to Phan Thiet and Mui Ne, they are incredibly popular as well. They are best visited very early in the morning or late at night to avoid the crowds and intense heat.

Following my friends steps
Photo by Lulugaia

• The white sand dunes – more picturesque but a bit more effort to reach than the Red Sand dunes, their grandeur are however, well worth the journey. Fantastic photo opportunities abound.

Dunes at the ocean:
Photo by alexlichtenberger

• Fairy Springs – Located about halfway along the main road at the back of Mui Ne beach. Head up river to the source of the spring and see how a small little river has carved out a huge niche in the local countryside.

• The early morning fish market – at the northern end of Mui Ne town, this is a must. Aim to get there sometime between 5.30-7am to catch the best of the action. You’ll see hundreds of locals furiously unloading, cleaning and trading all types of fish from boats anchored just off shore. A great 30 minute visit and easy to tie in with a trip to the nearby Red Sand dunes.

• The Po Shanu Cham tower – is located just east of the road linking Mui Ne and Phan Thiet. A vestige of the incredible culture of the Cham people who used to inhabit this area. It is beautifully located on a rise overlooking Phan Thiet city and the Phan Thiet river.

Stay away from

If you are going to hire a motorbike be sure to be cautious of all the tourist buses that fly in and out of the town. If you have never been on a bike before this is a great place to learn, but beware. Not long ago a new road was built behind the beach which has alleviated a lot of the traffic problems yet still many cars, buses and bikes continue to drive down the beach road at breakneck speeds!

Getting there

Mui Ne is about 30kms north of Phan Thiet. Just off highway 1a near the Phan Thiet turnoff is a side road to Muong Man which has north-south train connections. Ask about timetables in advance or prepare for a possible lengthy wait!

Most tourists reach Mui Ne on a bus, either a 4 hour journey north of Saigon or a 5 hour trip south of Nha Trang.